Has anyone here attempted to re-sleeve an aluminum block? We have a hair brained idea to use a aluminum slant six block in IMCA Mod dirt track racing. (Last year we used a 3.9L V-6)

I input a 225+ slant six into Desktop Dyno, and when I substituted the 3.125 stroke (instead of the 4.12) Desktop Dyno actually showed a hp increase! Even with the decrease in cubes. What is up with that? The guy I'm working with thought that might be the case.

Revsearch Engine Dyno
rvsrchjl@westriv.com

My guess is that those programs are calibrated and optimized for short strokes and large bores. The equations are probably very simplistic, and so I wouldn't trust it to give you accurate numbers for a Slant. I'm sure the resleeving could be done, but at what cost...

Cheers,

Lou

madsenl@caltech.edu

I have re-sleeved alm. SL6 blocks, it's not worth the effort, besides, you don't need to, just go get a 198 and use all the parts in the Alm. 225 block, you end-up with a Alm. Block 198 (3.4 X 3.64) 198's with a good cam and head flow will spin 7500 RPM.

Hey, are there any cubic inch to weight rules? any special classes for smaller engines? If so, go get a cast iron 170, bore it .100 (3.5 X 3.125) lighten the crank, con rods and pistons, stick in a real wild cam, (like a big roller profile) and rev the thing to 8500 RPM,... that will get their attention!

Here is how I "resleeved" the last Alm SL6 I did:
DD

Well the aluminum block we have has a cracked cylinder. We would use the 225 bore. So how would one replace the cracked liner? I do have some ideas.

RevSearch Engine Dyno
rvsrchjl@westriv.com

It has to be a real thin sleeve, installed with very little "press", done by a real good machinest.
Call the sleeve makers to see who can do a thin sleeve (.030 to .040 wall, about 10 inches long)

You may be better off finding a good alm. block to work with.
DD
DD