Well, today I started it. The old 1 bbl intake and exhaust manifold are off. I'm taking the 2 bbl and exhaust manifold to the machine shop tomorrow to have them milled flat.

I've got all the other parts (BBD carb, kickdown linkage, air cleaner, brackets, etc.), except for the right choke thermostat. Can the 1bbl choke be modified to work with the BBD and if so, does anyone have pictures of the modification?

I had a 2 1/4" exhaust put on a while ago. I notice that the 2 1/4 gasket is bigger than the exhaust manifold exit port. Would it be worth anything to have the machinist hog that out all the way to 2 1/4"? The pipe it bolts up to is a little smaller than 2 1/4", after being fit and welded, but I think I can clean it up a little with a die grinder.

74 Duster 225 /6, 904, 7 1/4"

In case the BBD I have doesn't work right, is this a good carb and price?

http://www.autobarndeals.com/servlet/th ... 190/Detail

No the 2 barrel choke is a different type beast, get the Standard Motor Products version, it's a nice quality choke.


only if you're running more camshaft than stock, or bigger valves, or running higher rpms...

-D.Idiot

Do you know the part number for the choke thermostat?

hot tip thru all of this site is to stay away from rebuilds like this.

if ur BBD doesn't work out, oull it off and take it to a local rebuilder that can tell/show what problems it has and how he fixed it. be sure to get the throttle shaft rebushed.

if ur talented to do ur own super six upgrade, u probly could do ur own BBD with a proper gasket kit and a gallon of carb dip.

i did mine. all i needed to local rebuilder for was the rebush.
now i know what i have, how it works and why.

Try it, You'll like it!



D~~~!

_________________
68 A108
73 Harley Servicar
71 BMW R75/5
48 Indian Chief
2003 Ford Ranger XLT extra cab
1997 Geo tracker(Suzuki Sidekick)

Woohoo! I got the manifolds back from the machine shop (he said it took a pretty good cut to get them straight) and got them installed last night. I still have to torque a few of the bolts, but following the instructions in the article I managed to get them all started. It only took one try, even on the one under the choke pocket.

I'll be picking up a thick carb base and choke pull-off today and hope to have this beast running sometime tomorrow. I've checked with Napa and the choke thermostat is obsolete, so I'm not sure what I'm going to do about that, but I should be able to survive the warm Sacramento summer without it, so I'll just keep watching Ebay, I guess.

Next up, brackets and linkages.

Advance Auto has a good selections of choke thermostats on their website. I ordered mine from Rock Auto and had pretty good luck. Did you think of doing the electronic choke that Dan suggests?

Don't rush getting the choke thermostat. You won't need it from here on out until next winter if you're staying in Sacramento. I bought the one that Dan suggests but im still trying to fine tune it. It seems like either the choke wants to stay on all the time or not come on at all. Even after I turn the device just a small tick to one side. It seems to be pretty fickle with me but these other guys have had a lot better luck.

Just run a hand choke and forget it.

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'81 D150 2WD shortbed 4spd OD.

I agree, manual chokes are simple to install, cheap, and very reliable

That's what I was thinking, too, so I picket up a cable at Napa and I'll see if I can rig it up.

Success!

Well, sort of, anyway. I got everthing put together and fired the engine after pouring gas in the float bowl and down the throat. It ran for a few minutes but there was gas leaking somewhere so I shut it down. I pulled the carb apart and checked the float level and they were about 1/2" too high, so I fixed that and put it all back together and fired it up again. Viola, no more leaking gas.

I let the engine get up to temp and started playing with the idle speed and mixture. I got it to a pretty smooth idle at 750 and took it out for a drive. It died as soon as I hit the gas. It would stay running if I slowly accellerated from a stop, but any sudden accelleration would bog it down and it would die. Got it back in the driveway and adjusted for a little more pump shot and also a little leaner on the metering rods. That made it better, but I still have some tuning to do.

Tomorrow I'm going to check the timing advance. I think I want around 10 - 12 degrees BTDC initial timing. I also need to check and make sure I don't have a vacuum leak anywhere and then play around with the adjustments until I get this thing to respond the way I'd like (tires smoking, smoke belching, and all that) or at least to be predictable.

Any comments on tuning?

I would see where your timing is at, and see where the timing is at about 3000 rpm... if at 3000 rpm w/o vacc. adv. you do not have 30 degrees adv. then you know how much to advance it, don't take a pot shot in the dark and have it ping...

-D.Idiot

I checked and it was 2 - 3 degrees retarded at idle and had 20 degrees at 3000 RPM with the vacuum advance disconnected. I bumped it up to 7 degrees at idle and it was much better, but still had a stumble off idle. I leaned out the metering rods a touch, which caused a lean miss at idle, so I bumped up the idle mixture and gave it just a touch more advance and I'll see how it is now.

Hi I'm new to this forum,this is my first post. I am going to start the same project as TomP. Also on a 74 225, my question is what muffler is the best one to use with the 2.25" exhaust? Thanks