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 Post subject: 1964 Vart Vert
PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 5:47 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2008 4:40 pm
Posts: 12
Location: Vernon BC Canada
Car Model:
In 2000 I was fortunate enough to have purchased a 1964 Canadian Valiant Signet convertible. I had many plans and aspirations for that car. My wife promptly got herself pregnant with twins (partly my fault) and then I lost my job (again...partly my fault)

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Anyways, against all odds I have managed to keep that car. Eight years later, through the thick, and more often the thin I have stubornly refused to part with that car. I think it's now actually become a matter of principle that I restore her to her former glory.

For any who don't know, the Canadain Valiant is a strange Valliant/Dart Frankencar, a Dart essentially with a Valiant front clip... a Vart. Personally, I really like the lines on this car. With the top down it's like a big square shark :)

She is currently hurting pretty bad. After I melted a piston on a long haul I spent a summer awkwardly rebuilding her slant six. She was purring pretty good. I'd thought I'd completely drained the block before I stored her for the winter (-30 Celcius). Hence...

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So, here we go... where to start? Well obviously the first step has got to be ripping down your garage :)

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More to come...


Last edited by CDN64_Conv_Val on Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:50 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 5:55 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2008 8:04 am
Posts: 315
Location: Spring, Texas
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Your pics didnt show up.

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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2714941


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 6:01 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2008 4:40 pm
Posts: 12
Location: Vernon BC Canada
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Brainfart... all better now :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 6:47 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 8:08 pm
Posts: 616
Location: Nelson, B.C.
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Nice car but then again I'm pretty biased. Is that a picture of the cracked block below the casting #s? Ouch. BTW I think your post subject might be a bit dyslexic.

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 Post subject: Cracked
PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 7:22 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2008 4:40 pm
Posts: 12
Location: Vernon BC Canada
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Yes, it's cracked pretty good. I'm going to see if it will weld...fingers crossed. I tried the old farmers trick of grooving a v into the crack and then JB weld but it failed to stop the leak completely.


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 Post subject: 1946?
PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:51 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2008 4:40 pm
Posts: 12
Location: Vernon BC Canada
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Um, yeah 1946... doh! Thanks for teh heads up.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 4:28 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
Just my nickles worth... I wouldn't mess with trying to weld the block. Slant blocks are cheap and easy to find so I would just swap it.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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 Post subject: Welding the block
PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 11:02 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2008 4:40 pm
Posts: 12
Location: Vernon BC Canada
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I hear you there... It's just that it's been completely rebuilt and has maybe 50 miles on it. Plus for some reason this town I'm in seems to be void of all things slanted :(

Would welding it be problematic? I was thinking it could even be done with the engine still in the car. I could drive it to a shop and then just pull the mainfolds.

Has anyone had any experience welding a block?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 4:59 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
I've never tried to weld a block so I can't claim any particular experience but I'm afraid you'd have trouble with it down the road. Cast iron is a difficult material to weld. The factory repaired minor defects by brazing but that's a large crack you have; there would be a lot of expansion and contraction during the normal heat cycle of the engine. I'm afraid it wouldn't hold up very well. I'd also be concerned about distortion of the cylinder walls due to the freezing. If you can find a good block you can probably bore it to the same size as the current one and transfer everything over except the rings and bearings. You'd have a much better and more reliable mill in the end. I know B.C. is a large province, but there are several slanters in the area and I've seen numerous cars. engines. parts. etc. go by from, B.C. sellers. Good luck whatever you decide to do!

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 10:55 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2008 4:40 pm
Posts: 12
Location: Vernon BC Canada
Car Model:
Thanks for the advice Dave :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 1:40 pm 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 4:20 am
Posts: 2011
Location: Argentina
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I understand thje welding option since blocks are numbered down here (not along with the car, you have one number for the rolling chassis and other for the motor, and when you sell the car your numbers has to be matching or else... you can swap blocks but it's as hard as selling the car to another person when it comes to paperwork) so I have welded a couple of blocks thru the years. Groove it deep and use a cast iron electrode on a standard arc beam welder. Then leave a thick weld area (weld and remove scale and then weld over again from the bottom of that V groove up, like you plaster a crack on a masonry wall) and if you have minor details, just braze them. DON't spend time trying to get a nice looking weld, just concentrate on producing a thick sturdy "scar tissue".

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.


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 Post subject: Welding the block
PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 5:16 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2008 4:40 pm
Posts: 12
Location: Vernon BC Canada
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Thanks for the advice Juan. I'm going to try having it welded first as the rebuild is just too fresh to throw it all away. If it fails it fails but I can't imagine it'll cost me all that much to have it welded.

On another front, the foundation for the new garage should be going in this week. I discovered TWO old foundations under the cinder-block of the old garage that I removed. I finally rented a Volvo 3 Tonne Mini Excavator to remove it all. That was a lot of fun. I buried the old foundation concrete under the footprint of the building.

Here's a question, has anyone ever fabricated a rotisserie for a restoration before. I could probably use some advice there :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 10:02 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jun 17, 2006 9:15 am
Posts: 458
Location: Gainesville, FL
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant 225, 1977 Dodge D100 225
That's a gorgeous example of a Vart. Very classy.

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Chuck and the Flying Valiant
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:54 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2008 4:40 pm
Posts: 12
Location: Vernon BC Canada
Car Model:
Thanks Chuck. I'm still working on the garage... permits are a b*tch...bah! Hence the lack of updates.

The restoration isn't going to be stock, I was going to take the doorhandles off, and probably change the wheels to t least 14". I think I'll keep it white on red though, with maybe a hint of pearl. I've also got a super six setup that wants to go on. Electronic ignition etc. I just wanted a nice mild daily driver for teh summer. :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 12:15 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 4:48 pm
Posts: 5835
Location: Burton BC canada
Car Model:
Is your block in at Dunbars?

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

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