1980 dodge slant 6. The problem is a high idle. i have sprayed etheir all over the manifolds and carb and directly into the carb and it will not die nor increase and when you cover the carbs it dosen't die. My timeing right now is out of wack but a friend is comeing later this week with a timeing light. i recently cleaned the carbs and replace vaccume lines and change plugs. could it just be my timeing or did i miss something with the carb job which i thought was a good one? the only i haven't realy check was the carb.

thanks tyler,

(1) Have you checked to make sure the fast idle screw isn't turned in too far? Curb idle screw?

(2) Have you checked that the fast idle cam is moving freely?

(3) When you replaced the vacuum lines and cleaned the carb did you loosen the clamp holding the throttle cable? If so, did you re-adjust the throttle cable when you reinstalled the carb?

Even with timing too far advanced, you should be able to get the engine to idle down around 400 RPM. The symptoms you describe (too high idle but no vacuum leaks) suggest to me a throttle linkage that is either binding or is keeping the throttle from closing on the carb.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

you can undo the throttle linkage to make sure the butterfly closes all the way. check vacuum and check the idle mixture screws a good way to reset the mixture is to screw them in all the way, then unscrew about 1.5 turns, then keep unscrewing slowly to see if the idle goes up any if not, screw it back in till it affect the idle. the idle speed screw is the last thing to adjust once everything else checks out...

_________________
'72 Valiant DD for over a decade-225-Disc brakes, big T-bars, big Sway bars f/r, carter bbd/super six, GM HEI, 2- 12" subs in trunk, 1000w amp...
'77 cherokee cheif widetrack-360-33x12.5 tires-no lift. keeps driveway dry-project/backup DD/mudder

i didn't adjust the throttle cable but my butterfly in the carb is slightly opened, i'm not sure that it's enough to cause this idle, which seems to be around 2000 rpm-2500 rpm or 1/2 throttle. i took apart carb and every thing checked out good. opened up the fast idle speed all the way out, but still not luck. turn mixture screw in all the way, it help a little bit but still no luck.i had to quit working on the truck becuase it was too loud for the parents to fall asleep.

tomorrow after school i will lossen throttle carble all the way, because this truck never did ran that good only on 4 or 5 cyclinders until i cleaned the cap, wires and new plugs and now its run on all 6. if that dosen't work, than i will try the distrubiter cap again. Still seems like an air leak but i spread ethier every were will no luck.


but thanks Reed and dank10fenny for the tips and help, i will post some pics of my old truck, tomorrow.

What kind of carburetor do you have? Is your truck computer controlled in any way (lean burn, spark control computer)?

If the butterfly is not closing all the way then this is most likely the problem. My first guess would be that the linkage is hanging up somewhere and not letting the throttle close. Post clear pics of your carb as well as your choke linkage and kickdown linkage. Close-ups would help.

Also, did you replace a thin carburetor base gasket with a thick one? The taller gasket combined with not adjusting the throttle cable will make the throttle cable too short and hold the throttle open. Try adjusting the throttle cable first.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

i took some pics but the computer and me are haveing some issues right now, so i'll try again tommorrow and my accelerator pump quiet working (was working before i took it apart) so i will fix that tommorrow. other wise their has been no progress. sorry about the pictures we just had a new hard drive put in it and we still have to install kodack.

i managed to get the high idle down, by turning the distrubitor clockwise (advanced i believe) and now it idles better but still sputters a little. what is the best way to post pics on this forum? can't figure it out. and i do have a diagnositics on this truck but don't know how to use it.[/img]

I would concentrate on the carb as others have suggested. And get your friend round with the timing light asap to put that right.

Playing with timing is a bandaid solution at best. At worst you will have engine overheating or detonation and bad damage.

_________________
AP6

I agree with Digger. changing the timing is not the answer. I still think it is something with your carburetor. If you have a Harbor Freight tools store near you they sell decent cheap tools. Right now online they sell a basic tiing light for $13 and a dial-back timing light for $30.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

If you replaced the carburetor base gasket (the gasket between the carb and manifold) it will be a little thicker then the old, worn out and thiner base gasket. This will cause the throttle cable to be out of adjustment. It dosn't take much. Loosen the nut holding the cable, move the cable toward the carb so there is a little bit of slack in the cable (just a touch) and tighten the nut down. As stated above, its not the timing. If you got the idle down by turning the distributer, you retarded the timing...not good for drivability.

i have done some more playing around, i sprayed etheir all over but no change in rpm, but i decided that the rad fan was blowing too much air at a high rpm to suck in the ethier, so i dumped a lot of gas and a small trickle come out the bottom Base gasket. I took the carb off ( gona go throu the carb again) and put some silicone instead of high tack this time. Say whats the best way to lub the butterflys and lincages?
My friend and i put it at 20* BTDC, what would you guys recommend for temptures around 0*?
Thier are two springs on this carb one hooks by the choke stove and onto the trottle inkage and the other I'm still wondering about, would you guys know?
thanks for the replys guys
and thanks digger 12 for the link i'm gonna try a pic here, say is that a valient ? pretty nice, their is an old one i'll take a pic of in the bush by my house with a "supper 225" according to the air breather, and it has a push butten atuomatic tranny.

http://img149.imageshack.us/my.php?image=carb1wv9.jpg

http://img510.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ctruckcu8.jpg

sorry about the last link.

Ordinary motor oil will do it.
20* BTDC is too much but you need to get your idle speed down first then set timing.
Yes its an AP6 (Australian production) Valiant. And yes I'd love to see some pics of the push button auto Valiant. A push button auto is quite a sought after item here....Sadly I don't have one!

_________________
AP6

Part of your high idle problem is that base tmiing setting. For now, set the timing at 5 BTDC. Your idle should drop quite a bit just by doing that.

Both your spring should go from the choke stove to the throttle. One should fit inside the other.

Remember, when you are setting your timing you must disconnect and plug the vacuum advance line from the carb to the distributor. Also, your vacuum advance line should be hooked up to a ported vacuum source no the carb. This means that your vacuum advance line should have no vacuum when the throttle is closed but have vacuum when the throttle is opened. DO NOT HOOK THE VACUUM ADVANCE DIRECTLY TO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. This will advance your timing at idle and disable the vacuum advance and mess up your timing.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.