It takes a good vacuum to actuate it and it will hold that vacuum for some time. What I can't figure out is how it decides its already warm and stop adding vacuum to the hose.
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iolite portable vaporizer

On most last 60s-70s their is a little thermal valve mounted on the air cleaner underside that switches the vacuum based on temperature. I've read that they are fragile and may break from shock if you drop the air cleaner on the ground, but I've never had a Mopar one fail on me. I think it does matter which nipple goes where; most FSMs show the routing. If you hook it up backward, I think the door will tend to stay closed longer than it should.

First year for the thermostatic air cleaner on Mopars was 1970. They all work alike: Manifold vacuum from a port on the carburetor to the thermo sensor, which has two vacuum nipples protruding from the underside of the air cleaner housing. Then another vacuum hose from the thermo sensor to the snorkel actuator. The thermo sensors can and do fail; when that happens generally the snorkel damper never moves from the cold-air position. If your sensor is the most common design, which looks like a flying saucer with a little round chimney on top (visible on the inside of the air cleaner housing with the lid removed), then it doesn't make much of any difference which hose goes to which nipple, but the "correct" way is manifold vacuum to the non-chimney side, and snorkel actuator hose to the chimney side. Nothing gets connected to the chimney itself.

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