My 64 push button 904 will hold fluid at idle. Once I rev the motor, even in neutral it leaks a quart out of the bell housing. Is there anything other than the front trany seal that I should check before pulling the tranny?

with that kind of leakage id bet the pump itself is damaged, or perhaps there is a crack in the torque converter. the cause of this leak should be very evident given the severity of the symptom. there's really no further diagnosing you can do in-car that you can't do just as effectively on the bench, best yank it out now and get your parts ordered.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

check your t- convertor-- I think they have a small drain plug -in them-- maybe yours is missing/stripped threads? did this just start? Do you have a bit more history-- Lawrence

If the torque converter were missing its drain plug, the fluid would be flyin' out of the transmission no matter the engine RPM.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

There is a notch in the converter drive hub. It is not uncommon for a crack to start from the corner of the notck and run down toward the converter shell, past the seal area. As the engine is reved and more load placed on the converter, the crack will open up, and leak more. Look at this area, closely.
Also when the converter/trans is out, check the diameter of the hole in the end of the crank. If the engine has been changed to a 1968 or later model, the hole will be larger then the nub on the converter. This can cause problems in alignment, that lead to leaks. The simple cure is to install a inexpensive adapter bushing in the end of the crank.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Someone asked if it just started to leak. I have had a few small leaks around the pan or fill tube but it always held pressure and drove fine. I am 90% sure that this is a new leak and not something that started small and got progressively worse.

It did shift a little different (shifted too soon) until it warmed up for the last few weeks but I was a little low and fluid.

I do have a 1980 block and I put in the bushing when it was installed.

The folks that said damage to the case or pump housing might be right. Even if the front seal somehow completely came out that seems like quite a bit of fluid and it comes out fast like it is squirting out under pressure. I can't picture how the pump could be cracked but that sounds replaceable. If it is a crack in the case/bellhousing my limited experience tell me I better look for another one to rebuild.

It sounds like the consensus is the motor has to come out. What no magic little filter clean or adjustment? Well it is winter anyway..

you need to jack up the car & inspect the lines/ shifter cable connections-- it could be one of your hard lines cracked/broke-- it should be obvious with this size of leak. Check the connections into the tranny also, Lawrence

there are no tubelines inside the bellhousing.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Well I sat on my ass all winter and finally got around to pulling the motor and tranny (64 pushbutton /6 dart, 904). I had been asking why my tranny was dumping fluid and here is what I found. The fluid was a bit dull looking (not clear) but even after letting it sit I do not see metal floating. The fluid in the torque converter looked better. The surface where the seal rides on the torque converter was not grooved and the seal was not obviously bad. However on the torque converter flange behind the seal there was metal build up. Also the bottom of the splines on the input shaft were completely worn off. It almost looked like it was machined that way. This tranny was running OK as long as it had fluid. It had some little leaks. But, I never ran it low. Then one day it started dropping all its fluid as soon as I reved it up. I parked it right away. I took the tranny and TC into a local who has a good rep and does a lot of old cars. He was old an gray enough and the kind of shop owner who is in before any of his crew before 8 on monday. He said look for a transmission. Before he saw the input shaft he said around $1500. I may take it up to torqueflitepatty. I am in Olympia WA. Does anyone in the NW have a six push button just crying out to live out it's life in a daily (summer) driver ragtop?

I got my 64 going three weeks ago after replacing the transmission. I had it rebuilt by a local guy who only works wholesale with local shops. So, we will see.

TF Patty provided some advice and parts. He shipped the parts before he was paid. All the parts came with little tags with instructions and the exact application.

The tranny and motor went in an out easily. I did have problems with one of the cooler tubes. I tried to bend my own with steel and with the NAPA Hand Bendable stuff but did not do very well. If there is a Zen experience in tube bending I am not enlightened. In the end I found enough length in the origional tube to cut out the crimps and reflange. My trick was to put in a 90 degree fitting at the transmission (this was the front tube). That gave me enough extra to reflange both ends. I do think that running hoses instead of tubing makes sense. It would keep the fluid cooler. The cost is down to around $50 for hose and fittings. I bought a bender and flanger and wasted a couple of sticks of tubing.

As it turned out the tranny I had said was working OK and then just started dumping fluid, was completely shot. The bushing where the torque convertor rides was nearly non existent.

I had no trany leaks and my adjustments on the push button and parking brake were easy. I had a hard time getting the parking brake out. But it went in and I was able (with some time) to get it locked in.

The results of a poor tranny rebuild are not always imediately evident. At the moment I am pleased.

I am having some trouble with the engine at idle. For some reason the newish alternator decided to die just as I got the car going. I am going to try a new alternator and coil. At some point I am going to have to finally understand the spring swapping in the distributor.

Thanks all