I'm still trying to track down the elusive problem that's making my Duster sputter and stall. I have a question about valve lashes. I read that they should be adjusted with every tuneup. I'm not very knowledgable when it comes to engines. I'm learning as I go by using whatever manuals I can find. After 1000 miles, My #1 and #6 plugs were carbon fouled. I had to replace the manifold gasket and I noticed quite a bit of carbon around the exhaust ports. What is valve lash? What tools do I need to adjust it? How do I adjust it? My charcoal canister broke and the charcoal spilled out, so I disconnected it and plugged the port on the carb that connected to it. Can doing this cause some type of vacuum problem?

jbrig@enter.net

What you need is some feeler gauges (I use the angled ones) and a wrench that fits the adjuster. I searched, then copied and pasted from one of Doug's old posts. Here you go:

Well... one step at a time, here is the SL6 Valve adjustment process:

...Now that we can tell the "Solids" (adjustable rockers)from the Hydraulics and seeing most SL6 engines are the "adjustable" type (solid lifters) how should you adjust these?? Here are some tips:

The engine must be hot.

Once valve cover is off, I check the torque on the head bolts, if they don't move by 80 ft.lbs, go to the next, follow the "center-outward" sequence. Also check to see if all the rocker arms are oiling out the center and tip holes. If not, now is the time to change them.

I do my adjustment with the engine running, so turn the idle down as low as possible and put some cardboard under the car. (if you want your floor to stay clean!)

I start with the intakes, stock cams adjust at .010, watch for the TWO INTAKES side by side in the center of the row (Cylinders 3&4) use the manifolds to guide you.

Come back around for the exhaust valves, they should be plenty hot by now,(remember, the engine is running and you are "feeling" the clearance between the "hits", if unsure, stop the engine for a moment and recheck to help establish your "feel"

The exhaust is set at .020 but shoot for looser to start. (.021 - .022) Find a setting where the idle is smooth but the lifters are mostly quite, yes "mostly" quite, they should make a small bit of ticking noise when correct. When you have things set right, each cylinder should "miss" slightly when you insert the "feeler gauge", this "hangs" the valve open, causing the minor miss.

If you want to try to "sneek-into" a minor bit of performance increase, try setting the intake valves a bit tighter, .008 instead of the .010
If the engine starts running rougher at idle, Go Back To .010, if the idle stays smooth,....how about @ .007? This puts a small bit more duration on the intake valve event, this also works in "consept" with the exhaust but there is way more "risk" of a "choppy idle" and burned exhaust valves, so .020, may-be .019 (HOT) is about as tight as I would go. Bottomline, these lash settings have some "leeway", a little tighter or looser is OK, as long as a smooth idle is maintained.
DD



pwd22@drexel.edu

As I understand it... fouling on #1 and #6 is rather normal, because of the intake design. Basically, not enough air is getting to these cylinders and is not burning properly... the 2 and 5 cylinders should be brownish.

The only way I know of to fix this is to get a multi-carb or TB intake... but I could be wrong. Who knows.

brokenmachines_e2@hotmail.com