I've been gathering up all the parts and pieces for a 8-3/4 rear end on my Valiant, but will have to use Green bearings, since I don't have all the parts I need for a stock setup.

My problem is that I'm not sure of the stackup for all the parts and I can't seem to find the info anywhere on the Net. Does anyone have a diagram showing the buildup sequence for the retainer, gasket and backing plate with Green bearings?

My first instinct was to install the gasket against the axle flange, then the backing plate, and then the retainer, but It doesn't look like the spacing is correct to locate the bearing seal against the flare on the axle.

If the retainer goes against the housing flange first, I'd have to install the backing plate over the axle before pressing the bearing and collar in place, and that doesn't seem right.

Sure hope someone can un-confuse me before I get the bearings pressed on and screw up royally.

No different then stock bearing setup - housing, gasket, backing plate, gasket, flange.

The gaskets aren't necessary as its a sealed bearing with an o-ring to keep the oil in the housing from leaking out. IIRC DocDiff told me to use the metal gasket as a shim to get a few thousands more clearence - something about the spacer inside open diff 8 3/4 rears.

As I remember the bearing retainer goes on first then the bearing and the collar. The hole in the brake support plate should be big enough to slip the bearing through. What Pierre is saying about not preloading the bearings is worth paying attention to. Ball bearings don't like side loads so try to make sure that the axles don't bottom out against the thrust block like they have to with the tapered roller bearings. You can either remove the thrust block from the differential, remove the contact buttons present in some aftermarket differentials, or stack up some gaskets under the retainer to space the axle shaft out a bit. Your bearings will last longer if you pay attention to this.

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

Here is a good how-to.

The O-ring on the outer body will seal against the axle housing. The backing plate will come up to the clip. The thickness of the paper/fiber gasket that comes with the green bearings will squish to approx the same thickness of the clip, so everything will sit flush.

The metal gasket sits between the backing plate and housing to give you the already mentioned space.

Exner is right - The retaining plate must go on first, then bearing, then collar. The gasket can come last after everything is assembled, but the bearing plate must be first because it is cut to match the outer diameter of the bearing, not of the clip itself.

I can take my rear tire off and take pix if you want. I use a rear disc setup but same difference, caliper bracket instead of backing plate. It's a bit of a chore to get the caliper off but I'm game if you really need an on the car pic to convince yourself of the fitup. It will be a week though until my next day off.

I guess my first instinct was correct, except I didn't get a 2nd gasket with the bearing set, so I'll have to buy a couple more.

The bearing will not pass through the backing plate, so the snap ring that acts as a stop will seat against the plate, instead of the housing flange.

I don't have any metal shims, but neither do I have a thrust button in the open differential, so there shouldn't be a clearance problem.

I appreciate the help.


You posted two minutes before I did! Thanks for the offer of getting photos, but I'm comfortable now that I'm doing it right. The only issue left is the shim v. another gasket.

There should have been one paper/fiber gasket per bearing. The metal shim/gasket doesn't come with it. Both can be had aftermarket though, or at least were common parts store items when I was doing this. The metal one was called the "inside" gasket while the paper/fiber one was the "outside".