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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2002 5:21 pm 
hey all
i'm also interested in this little turbo ordeal, i'm going to have my truck off the the road for about 2-3months in the winter and i'm going to be doing an engine and also i'll be doing all of the body work at my work so i need to gather all known information now. for a turbo setup i'm looking for something cheap and effective. i know the 2.2L's work but i want something thats gonna last till 55hun RPM, what would i have to gather from the junk yard for the trubo, i'll have a hood scoop and i want to make use of that also, i was hopeing to use a intercooler if possible to. i was thinking of going the 198 2.2L piston route but i think i'll suffer from the fuel milage loss for yes an every day driver. so i need a setup that is farely easy and bullit proof, if i could get some opinions that'd be great and also some "pros" and "cons" of the turbo. also is the A-833-OD capeable of doing high rpm gear switches?? i seem to have problems with grinding when going from 1st to second at 4000rpm but i can tell ya i can sqeal in 2nd but thats besides the point, heres what i want to do for an engine.

225 (or 170 not sure)

Head:
Heavy Port Job on intake and exhaust with polished exhaust ports.
alittle larger valves (need help on this)
340 valve springs
shaved .010"

Block:
shaved .010"
bored .030" or .060"
shot peend rods and crank
lightend and ballanced crank
Killer Camshaft
Windage tray

Intake/Exhaust:
Hyperpack or regular 4bbl (possible EFI)
single or dual if possible headers with custom turbo mount. (if required)

Turbo:
heres where i need the help, could i use a belt driven turbo?? if so which ones and what are the ad/disadvantages to this?

any suggestions are welcome from anyone. still want to keep some gas milage and this is a lower end engine build compared to the 198/2.2L combo, also i'll need to know exactly what to get from the junkyard and what kind of fab work is needed.
THANKS!!

p.s i'l like to be running in the 16sec or lower quarter mile saying the truck WILL see the strip, sorry for the long rant!

Justin



slantsickness@hotmail.com


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2002 6:41 pm 
if you are going to turbo charge it be careful with the camshaft and with shaving the head. You will want low comp. for turbocharging. the stock cam does good so you mite not need to change it, If you do want a cam for the turbo I can give you my cam specs. Go with a buick gn turbo,a early supra turbo(1986), or a tbird. I do have to give credit to the t03 turbo from the dodge cars. I went 15.10 with one. They will be fine on a almost stock 225. If you go with the 170 use the t03 turbo.

Andrew Wagner
Quote:
:
: hey all
: i'm also interested in this little turbo
: ordeal, i'm going to have my truck off the
: the road for about 2-3months in the winter
: and i'm going to be doing an engine and also
: i'll be doing all of the body work at my
: work so i need to gather all known
: information now. for a turbo setup i'm
: looking for something cheap and effective. i
: know the 2.2L's work but i want something
: thats gonna last till 55hun RPM, what would
: i have to gather from the junk yard for the
: trubo, i'll have a hood scoop and i want to
: make use of that also, i was hopeing to use
: a intercooler if possible to. i was thinking
: of going the 198 2.2L piston route but i
: think i'll suffer from the fuel milage loss
: for yes an every day driver. so i need a
: setup that is farely easy and bullit proof,
: if i could get some opinions that'd be great
: and also some "pros" and
: "cons" of the turbo. also is the
: A-833-OD capeable of doing high rpm gear
: switches?? i seem to have problems with
: grinding when going from 1st to second at
: 4000rpm but i can tell ya i can sqeal in 2nd
: but thats besides the point, heres what i
: want to do for an engine.
:
: 225 (or 170 not sure)
:
: Head: Heavy Port Job on intake and exhaust with
: polished exhaust ports.
: alittle larger valves (need help on this)
: 340 valve springs
: shaved .010"
:
: Block: shaved .010"
: bored .030" or .060"
: shot peend rods and crank
: lightend and ballanced crank
: Killer Camshaft
: Windage tray
:
: Intake/Exhaust: Hyperpack or regular 4bbl
: (possible EFI)
: single or dual if possible headers with custom
: turbo mount. (if required)
:
: Turbo: heres where i need the help, could i use
: a belt driven turbo?? if so which ones and
: what are the ad/disadvantages to this?
:
: any suggestions are welcome from anyone. still
: want to keep some gas milage and this is a
: lower end engine build compared to the
: 198/2.2L combo, also i'll need to know
: exactly what to get from the junkyard and
: what kind of fab work is needed.
: THANKS!!
:
: p.s i'l like to be running in the 16sec or
: lower quarter mile saying the truck WILL see
: the strip, sorry for the long rant!
:
: Justin


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2002 10:06 am 
Here's my thots based upon the following key phrases and words that you wrote . . .
Quote:
: truck
: looking for something cheap and effective.
: fuel milage loss
: every day driver
: farely easy and bullit proof,
: 225 (or 170 not sure)

For a daily driver truck (read heavy), you want torque at the lower rpms in order to get it moving. The 170 could make lots of power at high rpms but I don't think you want to be reving your engine just to get out of the driveway. A high reving 170 also goes against your desire for fuel economy. A engine thats continously operating at high rev's requires higher quality components and quality of assembly since you basically quadruple stress with doubled speed. That goes against your objective of low cost, easy and bullet proof. Definitely stay with the 225.
:
: could i use a belt driven turbo??
Turbo's and superchargers are definetly a way to get more performance but are also a significant step up in terms of complexity. Firstly, a belt driven turbo is a actually be a 'centrifigal' supercharger which is different from a 'positive displacement'supercharger like I run. The centrifigal moves air by building up pressure independant of the volume of air moved. The positive discplacement unit moves a given volume of air per revolution regardless of pressure. This distinction produces different operating characteristics. The positive displacement unit works very well for a daily driver because the ratio of the volume of air moved in relation to the volume consumed by the engine (displacement volume every 2 revs) is essentially constant regardless of engine rpms. Therefore it can work very well at the low rpm environment required by a daily driver and it continues to work well over a broad rpm band.
The centrifigal devices (whether belt driven or exhaust driven) usually require higher rpms in order to be spinning fast enough to build up the pressure required to move the air. Therefore, the rpm band at which they are useful is not quit as broad as that of a positive discplacement type.

Jason, it really comes down to knowing what you want your truck to be and knowing what resources ($$, assistance, knowledge) you have available.

Good luck! Stay warm this winter and maybe next summer, I'll see you at the Pony Corral.



ahtoews@shaw.ca


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2002 7:32 pm 
hey, well thanks for the info and i'll think i'm going to go with the 2.2L turbo setup in a month, well for sure i'll see ya around at the pony corral Al, i'm usually a guy with a 76 D100 that has a rustoleum red primer that has rusted out or with my 87 D150 with the six in it that has rusty doors and the rear wheel wells are rusty, well i'll post pics of me and my truck so you all can find me if ya like, i'm usually at everypony corral meet, maybe i'll see ya there this weekend!

Justin
Quote:
:
: Here's my thots based upon the following key
: phrases and words that you wrote . . .
: For a daily driver truck (read heavy), you want
: torque at the lower rpms in order to get it
: moving. The 170 could make lots of power at
: high rpms but I don't think you want to be
: reving your engine just to get out of the
: driveway. A high reving 170 also goes
: against your desire for fuel economy. A
: engine thats continously operating at high
: rev's requires higher quality components and
: quality of assembly since you basically
: quadruple stress with doubled speed. That
: goes against your objective of low cost,
: easy and bullet proof. Definitely stay with
: the 225.
: Turbo's and superchargers are definetly a way
: to get more performance but are also a
: significant step up in terms of complexity.
: Firstly, a belt driven turbo is a actually
: be a 'centrifigal' supercharger which is
: different from a 'positive
: displacement'supercharger like I run. The
: centrifigal moves air by building up
: pressure independant of the volume of air
: moved. The positive discplacement unit moves
: a given volume of air per revolution
: regardless of pressure. This distinction
: produces different operating
: characteristics. The positive displacement
: unit works very well for a daily driver
: because the ratio of the volume of air moved
: in relation to the volume consumed by the
: engine (displacement volume every 2 revs) is
: essentially constant regardless of engine
: rpms. Therefore it can work very well at the
: low rpm environment required by a daily
: driver and it continues to work well over a
: broad rpm band.
: The centrifigal devices (whether belt driven or
: exhaust driven) usually require higher rpms
: in order to be spinning fast enough to build
: up the pressure required to move the air.
: Therefore, the rpm band at which they are
: useful is not quit as broad as that of a
: positive discplacement type.
:
: Jason, it really comes down to knowing what you
: want your truck to be and knowing what
: resources ($$, assistance, knowledge) you
: have available.
:
: Good luck! Stay warm this winter and maybe next
: summer, I'll see you at the Pony Corral.




slantsickness@hotmail.com


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