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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2002 9:28 pm 
Today I bought the car and towed it home. I am charging the battery.
I hooked it up to my jeep using jumper cables. It will turn over. Also I noticed that after turning it over the compression has increased. Now it feels normal. Something ells I noticed is that the block is red, and the head and intake manifold are blue. All the electrical works with the exception of the front blinkers the dash and radio. The little missile shaped blinkers on the front of each fender above the headlight work except one… so I might need a new bulb? (Anyone know the bulb part number?) While turning it over it did skip and fire just slightly. I may have got water in the distributor while taking a power washer to a wood rat nest nudged up against the engine, and I got a little carried away with washing as well but nothing to crazy. I took the distributor cap and rotor off to inspect the points. They definitely look like they need to be changed. Looks like the round rivet, which holds the puck shaped point face is the only thing making contact with the other. Also I noticed it might not be all that fun changing the points with the room given. So far I am happy to here it fire slightly. Just out of curiosity… Will a matchbook gap setting work to start with new points? Anyone know the gap settings? I’ll post more info on it later. I’ll check to see if I can find info on some of these questions on the archives of this site! Thanks for any help, and thanks for puting up with a newbee. -Bolt


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2002 8:00 am 
Quote:
: (Anyone know the bulb part number?) While
: turning it over it did skip and fire just
: slightly. I may have got water in the
: distributor while taking a power washer to a
: wood rat nest nudged up against the engine,
: and I got a little carried away with washing
: as well but nothing to crazy. I took the
: distributor cap and rotor off to inspect the
: points. They definitely look like they need
: to be changed. Looks like the round rivet,
: which holds the puck shaped point face is
: the only thing making contact with the
: other. Also I noticed it might not be all
: that fun changing the points with the room
: given. So far I am happy to here it fire
: slightly. Just out of curiosity… Will a
: matchbook gap setting work to start with new
: points? Anyone know the gap settings?


Points gap at .020, I would bump the engine around until the rotor points straight-up and then remove the distributor to change the points and clean things up.

Check the vacuum advance pod and the mechanical advance weights while you have the distributor out. Just be sure to not move the engine position and re-install the dist. with the rotor pointed straight-up as before.

Sounds like this Valiant will start-up with-out much fuss, you may want to syphon-out all the old gas and put in some fresh stuff before starting the engine.
DD


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2002 9:12 am 
Quote:
: Points gap at .020, I would bump the engine
: around until the rotor points straight-up
: and then remove the distributor to change
: the points and clean things up.
:
: Check the vacuum advance pod and the mechanical
: advance weights while you have the
: distributor out. Just be sure to not move
: the engine position and re-install the dist.
: with the rotor pointed straight-up as
: before.
:
: Sounds like this Valiant will start-up with-out
: much fuss, you may want to syphon-out all
: the old gas and put in some fresh stuff
: before starting the engine.
: DD


Yes, a match book can work for a ballpark point gap.

fglmopar@aol.com


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2002 10:08 am 
I would bump the engine
Quote:
: around until the rotor points straight-up


Sorry, please excuse my lack of knowledge, but where is the straight up position of the rotor? Thank you, and thanks for the additional info in your post.


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 Post subject: Re: So Far - So Good
PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2002 11:11 am 
Quote:
: I would bump the engine to 12:00 position
:
: Sorry, please excuse my lack of knowledge, but
: where is the straight up position of the
: rotor? Thank you, and thanks for the
: additional info in your post.


Get the rotor to point to "12:00" position or stright-up, pointer at the head. This is just an easy to see reference position that is easy to find again when you go to reinstall the distributor.

That distributor has gear on the end of the shaft and can go-in a number of ways, you need to get it back in at the same position, so bump the engine around so the rotor points straight up and even put a mark in that place so you get the gear back into that spot.
DD


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 Post subject: Success! It started!
PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2002 3:23 pm 
I did as you wrote.. I pulled the distributor, installed the points and condenser, set the dwell, and then reinstalled the distributor. I hooked up the battery, positive first, sprayed some starter fluid in the carb and started cranking it over a couple times. To my amazement it fired up and ran so smooth and quiet I didn’t even realize it was running. (I am used to the sound of the 283 motor in my jeep, which is a bit louder) So I see there is no exhaust leaks and no knocking or strange motor sounds, no blue or black smoke. This Slant6 runs very smooth! The only sound it makes it the throw out bearing when trying to engage the clutch. Replacing the clutch will be the next step. Other than that I am hoping the tranny is in decent working condition.

Thanks very much for the help offered at this site!
Tom-
Quote:
:
: Get the rotor to point to "12:00"
: position or stright-up, pointer at the head.
: This is just an easy to see reference
: position that is easy to find again when you
: go to reinstall the distributor.
:
: That distributor has gear on the end of the
: shaft and can go-in a number of ways, you
: need to get it back in at the same position,
: so bump the engine around so the rotor
: points straight up and even put a mark in
: that place so you get the gear back into
: that spot.
: DD


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 Post subject: Re: Success! It started!
PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2002 7:59 pm 
Quote:
: To my amazement it fired up and ran so smooth
: and quiet I didn’t even realize it was
: running. (I am used to the sound of the 283
: motor in my jeep, which is a bit louder) So
: I see there is no exhaust leaks and no
: knocking or strange motor sounds, no blue or
: black smoke. This Slant6 runs very smooth!
:
: Thanks very much for the help offered at this
: site!
: Tom-

**************************************************
Well, Tom......welcome to our world. I suggest these old slants will elicit a few more surprises from you in the future. You will even discover that, among car guys, be they GM, Ford, or Mopar, a solid 80-90% will acknowledge that the slant was one good old engine. It's reputation is almost legendary, and I suggest that if you break it, you were trying to break it.

Good luck on the trans, cause that body looks great for it's age.

Roger

GTS225@aol.com


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 Post subject: $ 200 well spent!
PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2002 8:55 pm 
Congradulations on the well spent $200. Its great to hear the success stories!

Cheers!
Al

ahtoews@shaw.ca


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2002 4:30 pm 
Quote:
: Today I bought the car and towed it home. I am
: charging the battery.
: I hooked it up to my jeep using jumper cables.
: It will turn over. Also I noticed that after
: turning it over the compression has
: increased. Now it feels normal. Something
: ells I noticed is that the block is red, and
: the head and intake manifold are blue. All
: the electrical works with the exception of
: the front blinkers the dash and radio. The
: little missile shaped blinkers on the front
: of each fender above the headlight work
: except one… so I might need a new bulb?
: (Anyone know the bulb part number?) While
: turning it over it did skip and fire just
: slightly. I may have got water in the
: distributor while taking a power washer to a
: wood rat nest nudged up against the engine,
: and I got a little carried away with washing
: as well but nothing to crazy. I took the
: distributor cap and rotor off to inspect the
: points. They definitely look like they need
: to be changed. Looks like the round rivet,
: which holds the puck shaped point face is
: the only thing making contact with the
: other. Also I noticed it might not be all
: that fun changing the points with the room
: given. So far I am happy to here it fire
: slightly. Just out of curiosity… Will a
: matchbook gap setting work to start with new
: points? Anyone know the gap settings? I’ll
: post more info on it later. I’ll check to
: see if I can find info on some of these
: questions on the archives of this site!
: Thanks for any help, and thanks for puting
: up with a newbee. -Bolt

The bulb is a #330, be sure its well grounded! The '67 is particularly difficult to remove, as there is no slot on the orange plastic insert to turn. When a car was ordered with the fender mounted "bullets", the directional blinkers in the dash were deleted.

stever@luwadistributing.com


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2002 7:19 pm 
Very helpful information! I was looking for the dash blinkers, and was thinking there must be a fuse out. I think there is a ground problem with the left bullet blinker, because today while test driving the one that wasn’t working started working... just not as bright. Thanks for your info!
Quote:
:
: The bulb is a #330, be sure its well grounded!
: The '67 is particularly difficult to remove,
: as there is no slot on the orange plastic
: insert to turn. When a car was ordered with
: the fender mounted "bullets", the
: directional blinkers in the dash were
: deleted.


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