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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 4:23 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:36 am
Posts: 1209
Location: Rome, GA
Car Model: 1963 Dart 270, 1980 D150
Even revving the engine doesn't stabilize it. I noticed the fram filter I put on is a lot shorter than the purolator I removed. I have 15W-40 Rotella in it. The clip on the sending unit fits well. :shrug:


Last edited by drgonzo on Sat Sep 04, 2010 6:16 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 4:31 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2007 5:27 pm
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Location: northern NJ, USA
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Unless you have a very worn engine, that oil viscosity is too high. Use 5W30 or 10W30 if the engine bearings are not badly worn.

The switch itself could have failed. Temporarily install a mechanical pressure gauge to see what is happening.

Does your oil pump assembly have a standpipe?

Ken
:-)


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 4:47 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:36 am
Posts: 1209
Location: Rome, GA
Car Model: 1963 Dart 270, 1980 D150
I changed the clip on the wire to the sending unit just to make sure I had a good connection there and now the light stays on all the time, no flickering.
I have run Rotella in all sorts of engines with good results and can't imagine it is causing this. The engine sounds fine. No valve train clatter or anything odd at all. I think it does have a stand pipe though.It extended up and inch or so beyond the threads.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 4:57 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
I second the motion to connect a pressure gauge. Chances are good the oil warning light switch has simply failed, but assuming that could be costly.

You won't get excessive valve train clatter on a 1980 or older slant six with no oil pressure as the lifters are solid. Well, you might if you run it without oil pressure for long, but chances are a rod will come through the block before the valve train gets really noisy.

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Joshua


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 5:11 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:36 am
Posts: 1209
Location: Rome, GA
Car Model: 1963 Dart 270, 1980 D150
Took off the short fram filter and replaced it with the old longer one and the light went right out. Evidently the stand pipe does not play well with the short filter.
Thanks guys. Seems a real oil pressure gauge is not a bad idea though.
Brad


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 6:14 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2004 11:21 pm
Posts: 1394
Location: long beach ca
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Frams are known too bee very close to the worst filter.Do a search and you will no longer use them.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 7:19 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:36 am
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Location: Rome, GA
Car Model: 1963 Dart 270, 1980 D150
Lesson learned. Thanks guys.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 9:11 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Location: northern NJ, USA
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Quote:
Took off the short fram filter and replaced it with the old longer one and the light went right out. Evidently the stand pipe does not play well with the short filter.
That's why I asked about the standpipe. Take a close look inside the filter that caused the problem. Are there any witness marks from the standpipe coming into contact with the filter internals?

Ken
:-)


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 2:14 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:07 am
Posts: 26
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say no to drugs,and fram oil filter,i try using wix but purolator dos the trick just my opinion.
ps i also run premiun blue 15-40 oil,many people run 20-50 on their car i prefer 15-40


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 3:30 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2010 12:30 pm
Posts: 24
Location: kansas, usa
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Fram filters are the worst you can buy. If you don't believe cut it open and see for your self. A lot of cardboard and paper that doesn't stay in place when pressurized oil is pushed through it. You can guess the rest of the story. Friends don't let friends use Fram!
Cliff N

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This is my hooptie, there are many like it but this one is mine. With out my hooptie I am walking and without me my hooptie is broken down.
1980 dodge d150, sl6, 4sp od, air


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 4:54 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:36 am
Posts: 1209
Location: Rome, GA
Car Model: 1963 Dart 270, 1980 D150
Started to drive the car to work this morning BUT, oil light off at idle and at small throttle openings, give it a lil gas and LIGHT ON! Oil level is full, it does not come on under hard braking or turning. I am going to get a new sending unit and a new filter today and see what happens.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 7:31 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2007 5:27 pm
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Location: northern NJ, USA
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Connect a mechanical pressure gauge before throwing away money on replacing good parts with new parts. Diagnose the problem first.

Ken
:-)


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 8:47 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 7:41 am
Posts: 922
Location: Eureka
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I say get a good mechanical guage.....I put them in all my cars.That way you know for sure what you are running.
Andrew/Kidd

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My: 70 Road Runner, 67 Barracuda, AND the 62 Valiant drag car!!


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 8:57 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:36 am
Posts: 1209
Location: Rome, GA
Car Model: 1963 Dart 270, 1980 D150
A mechanical gauge it shall be!


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 12:52 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2010 8:41 pm
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Location: Houston
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I've also been thinking about permanently replacing my oil pressure idiot light for a real gauge.

I checked the oil pressure manually when I swapped in engines, but I don't like having just an idiot light.

So....now the question is....where to mount that gauge where it won't look horrible and won't hit my leg (if it's under the dash), but will still be easy to see.

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