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 Post subject: Still tweaking the Dart
PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 5:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2011 4:59 pm
Posts: 9
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Good Evening All and Happy Easter

It was a beautiful day in NW Ohio so the Dart got some more road time.
The Cruise Control works great, The car doesn't die a idle any more, however, a new gremlin has appeared.
I rebuilt both carbs (Holley model 1920) with new floats. I did this beacuse on the last shake down cruise, both carbs litterally flooded after about 5 miles. (The carbs have glass bowels, so its easy to see the fuel level). My thought process was that the needle/seats or the floats were compromised since it had been several years since I have done anything to them.
The rebuild did not solve this. Of course when that happens, the idle quality tanks. From start up you can watch the fuel level in both carbs slowly rise until they are completly full. The fuel pump runs at 4.5 PSI which according to the shop manual is within spec. The pump however does leak down to zero with 2 minutes after shut down.
The timing is 2.5BTC, vacuum is about 16 inches at idle (park). the jet size is #57.
I'm open to any/all suggestions.
Thaks to all who reply.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 6:02 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24803
Location: North America
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Vacuum is low. Try 7° base timing advance instead of 2.5°. What variety of inlet needle/seat was installed in the carbs? Remember those glass bowls don't have the channel for the float baffle intended to be present in the 1920. Float adjustment is crucial; sounds like your floats aren't adjusted properly.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 6:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2011 4:59 pm
Posts: 9
Car Model:
Good Evening and Thanks for the reply.
The kits were Napa and the float adjustment is between 3/16 and 9/32's
the floats were Tomco (New Old Stock) as they are no longer produced by Holley.
The bowls were off of Holley Model 1904's which are very similer to the 1920 (basically same body, different metering system/float/air cleaner attachment.) too bad the metal floats won't work in the 1920.
I could JB weld the baffle to the slot on the metering body (after fitting it to the bowl) however, I don't see how that would affect the fuel level.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 7:34 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24803
Location: North America
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Floats are still available for the 1920, made by Walker. Did you install the float counterspring in each carb? Very important. Most carb kits don't come with proper float gauges any more, are you really sure your float level is actually set correctly? I don't like NAPA's carb kits; too much money/quality has been taken out of them. Check with www.daytonaparts.com and see if their 1920 kits contain their "DFV" Daytona Float Valve which is a substantial design upgrade over the cone-tipped needle and seat.

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