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 Post subject: Cold Start Question
PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2003 1:11 pm 
I was the person who had timing problems among others. Now the only problem is the cold start. It will not start "cold" unless I severely pump the gas pedal while cranking it. I need to then hold the gas pedal down considerably for about 2-3 minutes before it will stay running at idle. It must warm up completely before I can hit the gas without it dying. By cold start, it doesn't need to be cold out, just not run in a day or so. The choke closes appropriately and the high idle screw is all the way in, the high idle screw rests on the top notch of the cam, the idle mixture, low idle and timing are fine. Any more suggestions from you experts? I would also point out that the electrical is horrible and will be completely replaced next. As always, thanks for any help...you have been fantastic.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2003 1:27 pm 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
Car Model:
This could be a fuel system air leak or fuel drain back problem.
Next time you go to start it cold, (after sitting) before doing anything, pull-off the air cleaner, hold the choke flap open and work the throttle. See if you see a solid shot of fuel from the accelerator pump. If it is a weak shot, crank the engine a few moments and check again, it should be a solid squirt of fuel each time you work the throttle.

Another test is to "prime" the carb with a little fuel from a cup, to see if the engine fires right up cold.
A faulty accelerator pump circuit in the carb or a small air leak on the suction side of the fuel delivery system can cause a lack of fuel into the carb. / engine for start-up.
DD


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 Post subject: Thanks
PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2003 6:52 am 
Thanks Doc. I will try it this weekend when I get off the road. As I recall, I was getting a good shot out of the accelerator pump but will look again. I was the one with a zillion reman'd carbs so anything is yet possible. What should I look for in an air leak on the suction side of the carb? How do I check for it, what are some possibilities and how do I remedy them. I know if it's the pump to just get a rebuild kit and replace it but the other I don't know...hate to have to put a kit in a reman carb...kinda a sad statement on the quality of our work in this country these days.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:42 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:34 am
Posts: 2479
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
This may sound sick, but I love to find posts on the same problems I have. On my '64 225, starting cold takes a lot of cranking or a little priming. Restarts depend on the time it spent sitting, and the outside temperature. My BBS accelerator pump seems to be gone, so it's rebuild time.
The Super Six parts are coming along, but aren't quite ready for the swap yet, so ...
Thanks, Doc!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2003 10:41 am 
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Board Sponsor & Moderator
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 17211
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model:
I will vote for the accel pump too.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2003 11:28 am 
Thanks everyone. I have a followup question. When I originally rebuilt the originally carb (it ran awful so I thought a remen might be better), I believe the rebuild kit came with two accelerator pumps (can't run to the garage and verify since I'm not home). They each had a different number so I matched the numbers when I did the rebuild. They appeared identical. First, what is the difference in these and should I maybe drop the remaining one in the reman carb?? What if that doesn't fix the problem? Should I do a total rebuild again or how do I check for a leak on the suction side and how do I fix it? Thanks as always.


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