I have seen lots of people knocking the 7.25 rear end as well as many just tossing it out for the 8.25 and 8.75. I don't want to toss mine because finding another small bolt patter is a bit tough. Beyond that the expense goes to the rear end replacement then a new set of tires and rims. Then the front end needs to be updated to the large bolt pattern. It creates a cascade of money that I simply don't have at this time.

So my question is the 7.25 rear end okay to keep using after beefing up my engine? I have found 4.10 gears for the 7.25 fairly cheap also.

_________________
2006 Jeep Commander
2013 Chrysler 200

1964 Valiant 4 Door
1965 Plymouth Barracuda
1967 Chevy Camaro

The 7.25" rear open diff and stock will work, but after some burnouts and putting the screws to it will not last. If you were to find one of the stock sure grip diff cases and the 4 spiders that go with it, it will handle much more abuse.

FYI, if you find a stock A-body 8.75" rear they are small bolt pattern so you can keep your current tires and rims, just need the driveline shortened and a new set of "U" bolts to attach it to your springs.

FYI.

-D.Idiot

A few years back I had a 1984 Chrysler Fifth Avenue that was built with a 7 1/4 rear axle. Two spider gears failed in the rear axle, so I decided to rebuild it. After investigating the cost of rebuilding the 7 1/4, I found that t was actually cheaper to rebuild and install a 1969 B-body 8 3/4 rear axle and that includes purchase and shipping of the 8 3/4 axle. For whatever reason, 7 1/4 rear axles are expensive to rebuild.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Are these the spider gears you are referring to?

Also how do I know the difference between open vs sure grip?

If I were to buy a new rearend or refurbished where would be a good place to look?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330679875057?ss ... 1423.l2649

_________________
2006 Jeep Commander
2013 Chrysler 200

1964 Valiant 4 Door
1965 Plymouth Barracuda
1967 Chevy Camaro