I am still in the process of getting my truck running. Took most of the winter off due to an unheated garage, lack of funds and frustration.

Had a rebuilt BBD installed. Would catch but not fire. Spotted a fuel leak. Turns out that the fuel bowl has a crack. It is right by one of the screws that holds thing together.

Had another BBD from the aluminum intake I found at the junk yard. Tore it apart. Fuel bowl is full of rust and corrosion. GRRGRHGRR!!!!

So now I want (need) to get a NEW carb. And based on what I have read here there are many, many choices.

A properly rebuilt BBD
A Weber 32/36
A weber 38/38
A Holley 2280
a Holley 2300

This is a stock motor with super six. Will be running the GM HEI.

Each one of these carbs has pluses and minuses. Kickdown issues, fuel pressure requirements, tuning issues, etc.

And my head is spinning from reading all of the posts. Since I do not have a lot of experience with carbs it is difficult to weigh the pluses and minuses for each carb.

I expect to get lots of comments both positive and sarcastic. I welcome them all. Need to narrow this down soon before the money is spent elsewhere

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1975 Dodge D100 Utiline
Slant 6, Super Six, Weber 38, 727
Repair work in progress.

a good BBD is hard to beat.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

How 'bout a new (not "remanufactured") Stromberg WW3, original equipment on mid-late '60s 273/318s? As descrbed here and here, and featured on 61V200's awesome (and recently-sold) '61 V200 described here. The Strombergs have really good engineering and really nice casting quality in them. Direct bolt-on swap for BBD. I had three of these carbs. One went on my '62 Lancer. One went to 61V200. One's on my shelf. Send me a PM.

There's no Motorcraft 2300 or 2280. There is a Holley 2300 and a Holley 2280. The 2280, configured correctly, is a bolt-on swap for the BBD. The Motorcraft 2100/2150 is a nice carb but not a direct bolt-on. The Holley 2300, likewise, is not a direct bolt-on.

(If you go with a BBD, shop carefully...unless you happen to stumble on a new old stock unit, your options are "remanufactured" junk or Chinese counterfeit new junk)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

if you decide on a 2280, i got a pretty decent one that i ran for a couple months sitting on the shelf. let me know if you would like it. $60

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

There seem to be two camps on Weber, you love them or hate them. The thing I love about the Weber is they are "set 'em and forget 'em" they don't need to be played with once they are set, and they are easy to set.


brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

There seem to be two camps on Weber, you love them or hate them. The thing I like about the Weber is they are "set 'em and forget 'em" they don't need to be played with once they are set, and they are easy to set.

Carter are also good carburetors.

I would shy away from Holley, my brothers (all mechanics of varying experience, Ford, Mopar and Chevy) all hate Holley for one reason or another. Holley carbs are ubiquitous, but I've heard lots of negative stories on them (tuning, jetting issues, etc, etc.). It's hard for me to imagine all those folks were just idiots and didn't know what they were doing...I saw one of my brothers, having just bought and drove home a 340 powered Demon with a Holley on it, let it cool down, took off the Holley, threw it in the trash and proceeded to put a spread bore Thermoquad on it...I'd also take a Quadrajet (Rochester) over a Holley any day. Sorry, I got a bit off topic.

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

The only two I have personal experience with are the Weber 32/36 and the Holley 2300. Neither are bolt-on, but adapter plates are available for either to bolt onto a super six manifold. I can't speak to whether they'll have all the correct vacuum ports and such for your application, as my '64 Dart didn't need anything but vacuum advance and PCV. Connecting the throttle and kickdown on either will probably be some type of challenge.

The Weber 32/36 DGV. It's a mechanically-actuated progressive 2-bbl, and is reported to give fuel mileage at least as good as the stock BBD when you keep your foot out of the secondary. If I remember right, mine actually didn't have a manifold vacuum source for the PCV, but the correct Weber two-piece adapter had one built in. Find the adapter here. It's made for Weber conversions on Jeeps that came stock with a BBD, and it works perfectly on the super six manifold.

The Weber is definitely more complicated to tune than the Holley, but if you buy the jet kit that's made for a 6-cylinder and you have an O2 sensor and patience, you can get it done. Webers supposedly require a lower source of fuel pressure than a mechanical pump will provide. The best solution is a good electric fuel pump with the expensive Weber regulator, but we got away with a decent $30 Holley regulator after the stock mechanical pump. It is possible that our Weber was starving at high speed wide-open throttle, but it may have just not been tuned 100% correct and we switched to the Holley after one race.

The 38/38 DGAS is slightly larger and synchronous, i.e. the two barrels open simultaneously. It makes more power, and I imagine it's a bit simpler to tune what with the two barrels being sized the same and opening together. Aside from that I don't know the differences.

The Holley 2300 is a synchronous carb. I think there's a 350 and a 500 CFM version, and I use the 350. Holleys have their own fun complications for tuning, but I think this one was simpler to figure out than the Weber. I used this Trans-Dapt adapter plate, but I would not recommend it. I had to use a die grinder on one side to make clearance for the center bolt connecting the intake and exhaust manifolds. There's another one out there that's apparently better for the slant six, but I don't have a link for it. The Holley doesn't require a fuel pressure regulator, and I think since they're so ubiquitous, it's easier to find info on tuning them. The 350 CFM 2300 makes more power than the 32/36. Maybe it's on par with the 38/38, but I can't say for sure as I don't recall the Holley's actual barrel size.

I don't know about the throttle and kickdown linkages on your truck. I used my early A-body's stock throttle rod linkage on the Weber, so the kickdown was stock as well. The Holley required me to switch to a throttle cable, as the throttle shaft points toward the driver side rather than the firewall like the progressive Weber, so I fabricated a janky rod setup to connect to the stock kickdown rod. Which brings up a very good point, actually. The Holley will probably be much easier for YOU to adapt your stock throttle and kickdown linkages, since the throttle shaft points the same way as the stock BBD. If that's not possible, I'm sure there are expensive aftermarket solutions available for both.

So yeah, that all sounds very complicated. If I were you I'd probably just stick with the BBD, haha. Follow SlantSixDan's advice on making sure you get a good one. If one of your cores is good, you could rebuild it yourself.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

A properly rebuilt BBD or finding an NOS BBD and regasketting it would be my first choice for a mild build 225. They are easy to adjust, work well if the build isn't radical, and if you use a 70's model you can use Carter/Edelbrock metering rods....But as noted, finding a good candidate or core is getting hard to find these days...and if you do find one you may need to get the throttle plate rod holes bushed as they are commonly worn out. Also note there are two sizes of these guys the 318/slant six guy...and the slightly bigger brother for the big block 2 barrel (will not bolt up without custom adaptor plate...same hole pattern as later Holley 2110 and 2245 found on 360/400)

Holley 2280 are still somewhat available, and if the core is good (or you find a swap meet NOS that needs a regasket), it will work fine, but as always you have to swap out the choke pull off stuff to make it work on the slant.

Weber 32/36 is doable, not many Ford Pinto/Mustang 2/Mavericks left with these guys on it anymore, but they are still available on an occasion...on a slant these are a little lean in the primary side and a bit better when the secondary kicks in, you will need a weber book and some tuning parts to dial it in (like any carb that is being used outside of it's design intent)...also like all carbs they are not 100% set and forget...if you dial it tight for your home town and drive to the mountains for a picnic you will be spending some time with the venturi, bleed, and jet kit to make it work after the major atmospheric change...and your spouse will not be pleased sitting in the car while you are under the hood...all webers will require an adaptor plate.

Weber 38/38 I have not used yet, but it will have all the fun of tuning the 32/36 as well...the main claim to fame about the weber family is that everything is tuneable...so as it sits unlike carter/holley/wrongchester you could go mad dialing it in(especially if you changed too much stuff at once)- the venturies can be changed, the air bleeds, in some models the emulsion tubes are removeable, etc...etc... and everything is still made and available to order.

Holley 2300- Will require an adaptor plate, allows some adjustments to be made to various circuits in the carb, carbs are still made and all parts can still be bought over the counter or scrounged off most other 2 or 4 barrels in a pinch....It's good to get a book like the Weber so you understand all the aspects and adjustments of the carbs...expect some tuning to make everything right. If you use a pre-1992 core, you will need to install a $7 anti backfire valve to keep an engine backfire from rupturing the PV diaphragm and causing a large fuel leak...all the new over the counter units already have this automatically.

Dan's Stromberg is a very sound carb, don't see many of them any more, but if it's a good working carb, they tend to stay that way.

You can also cut down on tuning time by installing an O2 sensor in the exhaust down pipe or header collector, and hook up a vacuum gauge so it reads what's going on under the throttle plates at the carb, so you can see what the engine sees in real time.

Other considerations that aren't much of considerations due to scarcity of cores and parts:

Rochester Mono and Dual Jet carbs (Most Rochester carbs were good for their application, the OEM carbs in the 70's were designed more for emissions and have some limitations... the 1973-1974 carbs were crap as the strike at GM forced Carter to take on their manufacture to make the quota, they were a good casting, but in the rush quality control was awful and most ended up being replaced later by the Holley or Carter direct replacement carbs.

Motocraft VV Carb (the throttle bodies warp and stick the venturi doors).



Good luck hunting....

-D.idiot

There is no such thing as a "set and forget" carburetor. Some require more fiddling, some require less, but all require some.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Sure there is Dan; the Ronco 33/37 engine top air fuel delivery system. So efficient that it refills your tank as you drive.

We sold a half million of them last Christmas with a 50 pc screwdriver set and Tornado A/F saver at no cost for not $500, not $250, not $125... Just 4 easy payments of $29.99.

Ron Popeil

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I personally like the Version Red Green installed on a Camaro on his show...with the 3.7L flush mechanism, it required very little adjusting to get more power out of that engine...


But you will need a roll of duct tape...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7nRRykiOGc

Mine's brann-nyew! Never been on an engine.

Little-remembered historical twitch: Chrysler put Rochester 2GV 2bbl carbs on some 1971 (only) 318 (only) engines in A- and B-bodies.
The Ford Variable Venturi carb was a service and operation nightmare. There was nothing wrong with the principle; zillions of SU and Zenith-Stromberg "CD" (Constant Depression, i.e., constant-vacuum, another way of saying variable venturi) carbs worked very well for many years, but Ford didn't spend the money to do the job right.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Wow I haven't seen The Red Green Show for over 20 years.
Nice to see he is still around.
Remember if the girls don't find you handsome,
they should at least find you handy.
Just occurred to me, that could be read more than one way.

All I have had experience with is the BBD.
I find them easy to rebuild and set-up.
I would be looking for a rebuild kit instead of a new carb.
That's just me tho'.