Hi all. Quite some time ago I posted here looking for answers to an issue I was having with my 1962 aussie SV1 Valiant not revving over 1800rpm after installing headers and twin carter BBS carby's. SlantsixDan was coming back with some ideas and then the system crashed and all the info was lost. Since then after changing the ignition over to a hei type and checking a whole bunch of other stuff trying to isolate the problem, I had it stuck in my head that it was a motor/carby issue. Last Sunday I had an light bulb moment when I got up in the morning and put the old girl up on blocks to find that even with the push button auto in neutral the tranny is still engaged and when I took off the park brake the back wheels started turning and she would rev no problems. So it was trying to rev under load and couldn't go anywhere. Only issue now is that there is a really bad ratcheting noise coming from the auto and I can't select any gears including reverse. It's going off to an auto specialist next week to check it all out.
Just thought that I would post this in the event that it might help out someone else with a similar issue. Thanks to all that came up with various suggestions last time.

Ratcheting noise isn't good, but it's preferable to a rat-ѕhіtting noise. A likely cause is your parking pawl not disengaging because the park cable is improperly adjusted. Sounds like your gear selection cable is also improperly adjusted.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Cheers Dan, I'll give an update once she's been to the doctors. I was just happy to find the cause of the original problem, and that I don't have to pull the motor out

Why not adjust the transmission cable, yourself? Unless your mechanic is "old school", he probably doesn't know any more about the adjustment procedure, then you do. While making the trans adjustments, don't forget to adjust the throttle pressure (kickdown) linkage. Very important to have it correct.
You can download part and service manuals here, if you don't have one.
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Ratcheting noise can also be caused by the pawl getting jammed by loose pieces of broken plastic speedo gear teeth. Something to keep in mind if your speedometer wasn't working.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Hi guys, found the problem with the ratcheting noise. The nut was stripped on the lock bolt so the cable was loose. Fitted a new nut and position the cable as per the book and noise is gone. Still have an issue with it driving in neutral though. I checked the cable adjustment as per the book but it still drives in neutral. I done it 3 times just in case I did something wrong but it's pretty hard to get it wrong so it looks like it might be an internal problem which is beyond my skill level unless someone has some other ideas. Cheers Matt.

On one of my cars with a push-button A904, I was unable to get the shift cable properly adjusted via the FSM method. I ended up draining and dropping the pan, then adjusting it by eye using the neutral safety switch as a guide. See the video below for what it looks like when properly aligned.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpuanJ9l3gs

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Cool video, thanks. Had a bit of an accident today after playing around with it and I started it up on blocks but it launched off the blocks and stopped in the back of my daughters Honda CRV . So not a good end to the day. Now I have a smashed rear end on the Honda, a smashed front right 1/4 on the valiant, still have a stuffed tranny and asides all that a really pissed off wife. Luckily I'm OK but it happened so fast that by the time I killed the motor the carnage was done. I'm talking less than a couple of seconds. Be careful out there people. i had it on stands and had the front jacked up and it just drove off on the jack. Pretty friggin' scary but I've survived to tell the tale. Metal can be fixed. I'll let you know what the issue is once the tranny guy has sorted it out.

Scary...
Glad you all are okay.

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1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Offenhauser Four Barrel Intake, Parallel-mounted 500 CFM Edelbrock, Split Cast Iron Exhaust, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1

Hi Guys. Latest update on this problem. Turns out the front clutch pack fibrous discs had all completely worn away to the point where the clutches were running metal to metal and had seized. It's a bit weird as I backed it into the driveway before I started the work on it so I suspect that there was enough slip in the plates to drive it home and into the shed and then as it has cooled down it has seized it all up. I went and had a look at it whilst it was apart. Was a good learning experience. Going to get a Transgo TF1 shift kit put in seeing as though it is all apart. Should have it home by the end of the week. All the best Matt.

Oh, de luxe! Yeah, that'll do it.

You'll want to read this.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hey Dan, Thanks for the info. My car has the inline tranny filter but it also has the pan filter so can I just get rid of the inline filter? Has anyone that you know of replaced the lines with flexible hoses. I can get a set of pre-fab lines off a later model car new but they are nearly $200AUD so pretty exxy. Not sure what hoses would be worth though so it might be reasonable.