Hello my name is Michael and I’m new here on this forum I’ve owned many a body Mopar‘s mostly with 273 V-8’s but this is my first slant six. I bought a 1963 Dodge dart convertible.
It’s got a 225/6 pushbutton automatic. Unfortunately I over here the other day and pull the head off and see I’ve got a big hole in my piston! So I’m either going to have to rebuild this motor and bore it and redo the head at that time
I thought I would see if someone on here had a really nice 225 sitting on an engine stand that was going to go into a project that never came to fruition. Also I need some opinions on a military industrial 225 slant six I was thinking about buying it and just dropping it in in the military green color I think it might be kind of cool! I have read that the horsepower rating is a little less On the industrial motor because things are over built

Also I have some numbers I’m trying to figure out if this is a hydraulic or mechanical lifter motor
Here is the numbers that are written on the crate it should be the numbers from the engine
H255 4492 097
Serial no. “ This may be for internal purposes it’s on the crate“ 0728705
This is on a written on a tag. “ Governor S301P“
Another number from the head for the engine 369-8447 Dash one
Another number 7.10.740
The engine has a carter 2168 to barrel I am currently running a 1920 Carter one barrel I’ve heard that the linkage can be a little difficult as you have to find the correct linkage from the pedal is this correct?
This motor has been in a crate since 1997 supposedly in a heated garage but I don’t know if I would be better off just rebuilding my motor.
I’m new on this site so it’s nice to meet everybody! Michael

just saw a listing for some of the exact same mil spec slant 6s on Ebay recently, whether it would be more economical to get this engine and put in, vs rebuilding what you have would depend on cost of this engine and cost to rebuild yours, how much you can do vs farming out, is the engine in the car original now? How important is it to have that in your car? This answer is different for everyone.
The engine that you are considering buying probably has a large crank register, the 63 engine (if original) would be a small register. Someone used to make a conversion bushing to use the newer style crank with the older style torque converter, that would be a must have in order to use the newer motor.
also have to consider oil pan configuration, may have to swap your original pan and oil pickup tube to another motor. plus a few other considerations I aint thinking of at the moment.

I would vote for rebuilding your engine. Unless you can get that crate motor for $1000 or so.

When rebuilding a slant 6 you can address the few weaknesses that they all have, namely a low compression ratio from the factory, and have the engine exactly as you want it to be.

There are engines that come up for sale here from time to time. Depending upon where you are, there may be someone near by that has something, or knows of a lead.

The engine that I currently have is from a 1979 dodge Aspen. So it’s not the original motor I actually think it would be pretty cool to drop in the military industrial motor and leave it the military green. But I may end up just rebuilding my motor like you guys say that way I know what I have

Welcome to the Slanted Family!

Can you post some pics of the industrial engine? That would be cool. I feel a theme idea coming...

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

That engine is here, and I think $2K is way out of line for it. If you're going to spend anywhere near that money on an engine, you'd want to be able to pick out your own components and machinework.

A '68-up engine in front of a '67-down automatic transmission requires an adapter ring between the later large-bore crankshaft and the earlier small-nose torque converter, or transmission problems will result. This detail is not widely known any more, and so might have been skipped when your present engine was swapped into the car. That's going to be something to check when everything's all apart.

As for the eBay engine itself: interesting mix of components on it. That's a 2bbl carb configured for a manual choke. It's a '75-up cylinder head, and a '70-'72 type exhaust manifold. Can't tell if the distributor is electronic or points-type. To install any Slant-6 engine in your '63 Dart would require the correct-for-the-car oil pan and pickup; these components swap onto any Slant-6 engine.

To operate the 2bbl carb you'd need to remove the car's rod-type throttle linkage, including the accelerator pedal, and install a cable-type setup. The "correct" pedal assembly comes from a '64-'66 Dart/Valiant/Barracuda with V8 engine, or a '65-'66 with Slant-6 and factory A/C, but these are scarce any more. Another option that looks very much like the A-body parts would be a '62-'65 B-body accelerator assembly. Later-model "hanging" pedals are easier to find, and have been installed in the earlier cars. In any case, some adaptation and drilling will be required, and you will need an accelerator cable of the correct length. This engine doesn't appear to have the throttle cable bracket, though there's no clear pic of that angle, so that's another piece you'd have to find. And you'd have to replace/reconfigure your automatic transmission kickdown linkage. Factory 2bbl kickdown setups have grown scarce and costly; see this thread for kickdown options.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Another issue is the military engine might be very different from the civilian one in compression and cam specs. I can't say for sure , someone else might know but depending on the use planned for the military one(Pickup truck, stationary, APC of some type) might be an issue. Just suggesting you check as much as you can. I would lean more toward the original one and if you wanted paint it OD. And as was mentioned you can build it how you want it to be.

Substantially same as passenger car/civilian pickup truck.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

It's cool, but not $2K cool. It's also less cool as a 'reman' than if it were all new.

OK I’m gonna drop my engine off at the machine shop next week! I’m getting a premium long block about $1600 in Spokane Washington. I did pull my torque converter and I am going to need a bushing because ithe torque converter hub is smaller than the crank but I don’t see any damage. So if somebody could tell me where to get one of those. Also I seen where peopleAre taking about 95 thousands off the block if I remember right and if the guy uses a Fel-Pro head gaskets set That’s going to be about 60 thousands larger
So you would be taking about 35,000 extra off the block to up the compression does this sound right?
I’m not sure what other mods I would need to do I think I’m just gonna run the stock one barrel carburetor 1920 just to get back on the road. As you know my number six cylinder had a hole in the piston. So that’s the reason for the rebuild. I was hoping to find one that somebody had built sitting on a stand I’m really bummed I missed one in Spokane they had a four barrel carburetorProbably a real good motor! I’ve been searching high and low for a nice motor but looks like I’m gonna be getting my own built thanks for the help!
Also I’m gonna need a new exhaust manifold mine had a crack in it and it said it was made in China! I’ll try to post some pictures but I find it pretty difficult on here Michael
My current engine came out of a 1979 dodge aspen so the head should have harden valve seats

Member Charlie_S sells the bushings for the converter.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Thank I’ll find him!!