How does one remove a seized lifter? Actually all are seized, but #3 intake is in fully down position, and I cannot get the cam past it to pull the cam and then knock out the lifter.
Suggestions? Been soaking the the block/lifters in MMO for a couple days now. Can I heat the block with a mapp torch? Will I crack the block?

Thanks.

Brian.

Yes you can heat it some. If you have some kroil it will help wick some of it into the lifter bore. Can you rotate the cam and push them up ?

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

They make a tool for that, but I am not sure if it will work on a mechanical lifter as found on a slant.

I have never used one.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7769 ... gLzmPD_BwE&

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Shoot some "Gumout" on it while working it, it will pop loose.

Whenever something is stuck, I always remember the 4 F's: Force, Finesse, Fire, F*ck it. If a reasonable amount of Force won't get it out, and Finessing it with penetrating oil doesn't help, and heating it up with Fire doesn't bust it loose... then it's time to get unreasonable.

Can you take the oil pan off, lay the engine on its side (on the ground), get a long screwdriver or punch onto the bottom of the lifter, and then hammer away? Or is the camshaft completely blocking it? Can you slide the camshaft far enough that the cam itself is out of the way, and it's just the shaft blocking the bottom of the lifter? Of course you'll want to avoid gouging the lifter bore too hard with your punch.

Alternatively, you could try drilling a hole in the top of the lifter, and rotating it with a bolt extractor. Maybe if you can thread a big enough screw into the hole you made, you could lay the block on its side and use a slide hammer to pull it out the top?

If the camshaft is in the way of applying "unreasonable force," and you've exhausted every other option, you could always break out the cutting tools and carefully make the camshaft not in the way anymore. Replacement camshafts aren't that expensive. I bet with the crank and pistons out I could an angle grinder on it. If not, an oscillating tool with the right metal-cutting blade should work.

Just some ideas. Hopefully fire does the job.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

I like Rick's idea. Thread a bolt into the front of the cam with a nut on the threaded portion. Tighten the nut against the cam to hold the bolt in place. Then with a long extension on a ratchet or wrench, or better yet an impact gun, rock the cam forwards and back.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Just a pitch for the mapp torch. Heating up stubborn metal parts to loosen them up works like magic. I do it all the time. Just try to focus the heat on the lifter itself and not the block. Give the lifter a few mins of heat and then see if you can wiggle it loose. If you can get it to move, apply some WD-40, and it should be able to be removed. Good luck!

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SlantGeek

Basic physics says that is 100% wrong. Heat makes things get bigger. And that is a fact. Having a lot of gray iron foundry experience I would not apply intense heat to a localized area of an iron casting.
So heating the block and keeping the lifter cool would make sense, but I would not do that. Iron grows a lot when heated, so if it is not all warmed uniformly together it will crack.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Local Hardware store has a "freeze" product that I think is made by WD40 to shrink the lifter in this case and help it to break free.

Never really seen if this engine is in a car, out of a car. Is the pan off? Head off?...etc

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Last time I removed stuck llifters from a slant block I did it while the engine was installed in a van and I was swapping the cam from mechanical lifters to hydraulic. I had the front of the motor apart and the cam out due to the cam swap. Several lifters would lift but then stick in their bores. I got them out by using a strong magnet on a stick and tapping the lifters down and out of the lifter bore but catching them with the magnet. It was a pretty sphincter puckering exercise since I really didn't wan't to drop a lifter into the oil pan, but I pulled it off. Hydraulic lifters dropped right in from the top after the cam was replaced.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I never tried the freeze spray approach. Anyone else? Not just with lifters but with anything motor-related stuck.

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SlantGeek

On my current engine build, which came to me as a basket case (in pieces) all that was left in the otherwise bare block when I started was the crank by "most" of the main bolts and the lifters.
Well 11 of them anyway.
The cam was with the pile of parts but already removed from the block. When I had it on the stand upside down to get the crank out, I took a hammer and long screwdriver and popped the remaining lifters out. It didn't take much tapping to get them out
(and what tapping I had to do was very light, some fell out by gravity when the block was rolled over) but most of the problem that kept some from just falling out, was sludge from lack of oil changes over the years. I cleaned the pan that came with it for now (even though I have to swap to a truck pan) but that original one was NASTY dirty/sludged, I'm sure the oil pickup was completely submerged in sludge before disassembly.
Is this engine in the car still? Pan off, or intended to come off?
I doubt that extreme measures like heat will be necessary to get the lifter out. Keep soaking it, once all the baked on residue from years of use dissolves I'll bet it comes right out. If it is anything like the one I have, I'd be afraid to heat things much, for fear all that sludge would become a fireball.