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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2022 8:11 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 01, 2022 5:25 am
Posts: 3
Car Model: Dodge Magnum
New member, long time lurker. I feel like I've turned this forum upside down, and considering the comprehensive amount of content here, I fear there is not going to be an easy answer, but going to ask anyhow.

I am in the process of building a newer slant 6 with a cast crank, starting with a nice running engine with no issues. Trying to build a solid & reliable NA engine for amateur endurance racing (Lemons/Lucky Dog/Etc). I chose the cast crank example for the sake of the lighter rotating assembly, but am now coming to realize connecting rods are going to be hard to find, or impossible. Looks like Molner/K1 options are dried up. Aside from custom connecting rods, what options am I overlooking for connecting rod/piston combos for the cast crank? Is there some other go-to option that works with a bit of crank work at the machine shop from another engine?

I am actually not opposed to reconditioning the factory rods and running ARP hardware in them, but don't see much for piston options either for the stock length rods other than cast / OEM style pistons.

I already know the common wisdom is start over with a older engine/forged crank setup, but I have what I have now so I have to ask.

Thanks in advance!

Adam


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2022 8:39 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3840
Location: Indianapolis
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If you really want to have the K1 rods in your cast crank slant you could have the slant six steel crank K1 rods milled down to the cast crank rod thickness.
You will also need to have the bearing locating notches re cut in.
I am thinking this would be a simple project for a competent machine shop.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2022 3:53 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Sat Oct 01, 2022 5:25 am
Posts: 3
Car Model: Dodge Magnum
Has anyone actually done this? I actually asked the question of Molner and was told it was not advisable without an explanation. My question is are the H-Beams dimensions such that I could narrow the big end without getting into the H-Beam.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2022 4:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 17167
Location: Blacksburg, VA
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I would cut down the K1 rods if I wanted to go that route. Honestly, I don't see an issue with the stock rods and pistons. Our current Lemons engine has that setup, although it doesn't have tons of hours on it yet. Jason Ernst's BMW/Slant had a cast cranker that went many races and failed for another reason not related to rods/bearings/pistons.

Lou

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2022 5:21 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14723
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
I have a late light cast crank motor in my car. Stock crank, rods, and pistons. Block and head were decked to get 10-1 compression. I shift at 6300, we hit the limiter a few times last weekend at 6800. Motor was assembled years ago, ran, and then sat under a bench for years before I bought it.

Stock rods don't scare me. :mrgreen:

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