Title says it. Signals click on by themselves if I turn the wheel either way. What gives?

A decade ago, this switch (from SSDan) was new. The front suspension was worn out. Switch ‘clicked’ then (as I would turn the wheel), but didn’t actually engage the signals. Now they do, and it’s a problem.
Suspension has been redone, but the problem with the signals remain. Ideas?

Here’s a long-winded post I wrote on the subject back then that no one replied to.
viewtopic.php?p=409547&hilit=Steering+c ... al#p409547

Might be a sloppy upper and/or lower shaft support bearing in the steering column. Or the turn signal cancel finger (on the back of the steering wheel) is out of correct position.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks. Does replacing those bearings require removing the steering column? Doesn’t sound like a quick job…

Would a worn manual steering gearbox cause this symptom? I have yet to replace that.

Tough to imagine a worn steering gearbox doing this. Yes, you would need to remove the steering column to rebuild it—it's not difficult to remove or work with. You'd want to pay attention to the coupler between the steering shaft and the gearbox, and to the seal at the bottom of the column. Most parts are available onewhere or another, because '62-'65 B-bodies are popular high-dollar cars and use the same parts.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks again. I guess I’ll have to investigate the bearings.

Re: the cancelling finger on the back of the wheel, I remember thinking it looked difficult to loosen or adjust it at all and immediately dismissed it as a possible culprit. Maybe I should not be so quick. Tips to loosen and move it?

Got nothin' on that, sorry.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

All's well that seems to end well. Installed a new replacement switch from you Dan, and this time, I really seated the wheel, cranking down the castle retaining nut which drew the wheel down the splines very tightly. I would have benefitted from having a hardened steel washer under that nut, but made do with the warped washer that was there. Seems that was at least partly my mistake the last time I replaced this switch: now the wheel's in the correct position and the canceling finger isn't catching the switch incorrectly, but IS canceling the signals after I've manually activated them. Glad I didn't have to mess with the column support bearings. That was a rabbit hole to avoid going down. The last switch body had cracked.