I'm new to the forum, but not to Slant 6 mopars. I was a member of the Slant 6 club of America a few years ago, where Doug Dutra was the driving force. I've had my 63 Dart since 1974. Over the years I've made a few upgrades (super 6 manifold & carb, electronic ignition, larger exhaust) largely using info from the Slant 6 club magazine. The engine has remained original all along. Now it's time for a rebuild. Although I can find my way around an engine compartment, I looking for some expertise in building smooth, dependable and hopefully powerful 225. My intention
is to build a car capable of long distance travel, as well as the Sat nite
cruise in.
Anyone in the Mid Atlantic area have any experience in such a build?
I'm open to suggestions as to what works, and as to who could do a professional job.
The original drive line set up was capable of these things, but now that the time is right for a rebuild, I'd like to optimize performance.

Thanks for any input.
Oz

Hi Oz. We are close to each other. I live in Gaithersburg, and would love to get to know you. Maybe we can arrange a get together sometime. As to the engine build, there are many ways to go depending on the RPM range and driving style you are anticipating. The stock bottom end is pretty much about as tough as they come, so the top end is where all the attention needs to be spent. Consider these things, in order of benefit, and or increasing cost. IE, biggest bang for the buck first. Good headwork with larger valves, and well ported bowels. Bigger, and/or better carb(s). Durta Dual exhaust, or headers, (although headers do create drivability problems in the North. Bigger(better), cam. electron fuel injection. overdrive tranny. That's the heart of it, although someone else may think of something I forgot to mention.

Beyond that, it is a matter of doing each step as accurately as you can. Teh more precision you get, the better the engine will eventaully perform. For instance, you can have the pistons and crank balanced, you can dial in your cam, you can blue print the rocker arms, cc the combustion chambers,etc.etc. It will work pretty well without these things, but will work better with them.

Good luck. Vader

May I suggest rebuilding the long block to marine spec?

Forged pistons, paint the inside of the block with Glyptal, copper coated connecting rods, looser main bearing tolerances, 440 main bearing cap studs? Doug has an excellent article on blocks, including a walk thru on drilling the lifter chamber and installing nipples to raise the oil level in the chamber to improve oiling to the lifters. Do a search.

_________________
I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Dart always has some good advice, we probably could give better 'suggestions' if we knew more about your dart. Does it have an automatic transmission? Stock rear ratio? etc...

For street 'ummph' and gas mileage, I'd say have it rebuilt, ask for moly rings this time, you'll probably have a minor overbore like .020, I'd even say a better cam is in order, like the MP '243' (244/244 .436) cam or even the Comp Cam 252 since this gives you a nice boost in torque in the rpm range you want without sacrificing mileage (also works good with any intake improvements too like a 2 or 4 barrel if you are going there).
Top end likes lots of improvements, if just cruising and driving lots, gasket match and pocket porting with stock valves will help a lot without costing major $$$. If you go with an overdrive tranny you can opt for a better rear ratio and still keep your mileage too... I also will highly recommend installing a timing set from cox brothers it makes degreeing in the cam much better and it a quality chain and gears (makes the mopar performance double roller set I have on the shelf look like $%$^).

welcome to the board...keep asking questions, that's what we're here for..

-D.Idiot

Thanks for the feedback. My Dart is factory stock except for the previously mentioned items. Automatic with high (2:76?) rear. I plan on a disc brake
update along with a later and lower geared rear (maybe 3:23). I'd like to keep the trans. I understand that adapting the push buttons to a later
tranny is a bit tedious. I'll likely be looking for a donor car for the brakes
and rear.
Should I go with a newer block, or stick with the early one? I'd prefer
having the engine built, then yanking out the old one.

Any one know of shops in this area with experience in performance
sl6? (Mid-Atlantic-Md, Va, Pa, WV)

Thanks again
Oz

Hi Oz I am in the Virginia Beach Area and a shop here has just finished my buildup ist called Magnum Machine in Chesapeake Va. The owner Kurt Bosch has built several slants over the years and will be happy to build yours. If you want you can contact me at 757 513 6015 I have a 80 motor I could take to him for you although your block would be better. Also I know of several motors in the area of a forged variety I could pick up for you(about $100 each) You would have to suply the intake and exaust I think. Let me know if you are interested the shop number for magnum machine is 757 424 1440 I think he charges in the neiborhood of 2500 for everything I couldnt tell you though because my motor was started in one shop and finished at his shop my bill was 750 for a complete tear down and put back together condition the rods new valve springs ford valves(I suplied these) a port job complete reasembly and paint also blueprinting.

He'll need a pre-67 crank for his tranny to work, or he'll have to call Ed Yost at Wildcat Auto Wrecking in Sandy,OR and get a spacer to work with any post 1968 mill...

FYI,

-D.Idiot

p.s. Too bad you weren't local "no-mopar bob", had a mid-60's finshed crank and bearing kit ready to install for cheaper than a standard kit, then all you'd need is a 1960-1976 forged crank block to put it into...

Hi OZ. I have three engines for you to pick from. I also have the correct crank for you. You can have the crank, and a block just for picking it up. I am about 45 minutes from you. You can e-mail me at Spowell786@ aol.com.

OZ, if you e-mail me, make sure you identify yourself clearly in your e-mail subject line, otherwise I might delete your message thinking it is spam. Use your screen name, and specify slant six. Thanks.