That is broach set for cutting keyways. It would definitly groove a lifter bore, but probably too wide and too deep..... unless you had a custom broach made. For a decent lump of money. I am unsure what is under the lifter bores, but broaches generally need to be pushed all the way through.

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Excuse me, does this smell like chloroform to you?

It is hard to get a good photo of the inside of a SL6 Lifter bore...
I will see if I can mock something up to show what we are doing here.

Honing out the SL6 lifter bores is a must in my mind, most SL6 lifter bores are way to tight, almost "sticky" when the lifters go in.
DD

I'm not endorsing the companies that these links are from, information only ..... buyer beware etc............

anyway here's some info (with diagrams/pics)

https://www.goodson.com/technical_suppo ... GT-842.pdf

http://www.compcams.com/Products/335-353.PDF

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Note that the tool shown bleeds off gallery pressure DOWN to the cam (no pressure leak back up to the valley), and doesn't connect to the drain oil above the tappet. For a /6 it should go full length.

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Thanks doc I am pretty close to that now. I will hone the bores when I get to the machine shop this week.

quoted DD
Another area to spend some time on is the lifter area and lifter bores. First drill some extra 1/2" oil drain back holes between the lifters and tap these out with a 3/8 – 16 NPT (or 5/8-16 unc) to accept "standoff" pipes.

I understand the standoff pipe reasons and the extra hole drilled over the fuel pump arm (if fuel pump is used), but why the extra holes with standoff pipes? Shouldn't one standoff per pocket be enough? There is one hole up against the end. How do you tap that one?

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

These holes are the pathway for crackcase - blow-by venting. I tend to drill a couple of extra holes for engines that get stand-off just because the stand-offs tend to reduce the exsisting hole size. I just want to be sure there is enough of a path for pressure to escape, especially for a high RPM engine.
DD

forgive me for my ignorance I think someone else asked where you can get the standoff tubes and i'm actually wondering this myself (they look to me just to be brass fittings) and I did not see any reply with this info if someone could let us know that would be great

thanks

Yes, the stand-off tubes I use are hardware store brass fitting that I modify to fit.
You can also epoxy-in copper or aluminum tubing but I always worry about the epoxy joint coming loose.
DD

COOL THANKS MAN

Slant zilla, Did you move to california?? I thought You were in the windy city for some reason, and today I noticed it said Chico near your flag in the Avatar.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

What? I see Nebraska.

I move a lot since I'm retired.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Greg: the avatar changes automatically with your location ......GPS you know.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I was not aware of that - I thought you could only manually change it.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

You only get the GPS avatar when you pay the premium membership fee. You also get the special .org handshake then too.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.