what weight of motor oil should i use for initial break in of my engine after it is completed and installed? should i use any additives to ease the break in? and what kind if any?

thanks

russ

I would use any reputable brand of conventional, non-synthetic 5w-30 with no extra additives, and a Wix or Purolator filter. I would change the oil at 500 miles, then at 1000 miles, then at 3000 miles, probably changing to 10w30 at that point.

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I would agree with Dan on the oil choice...I work in a parts store and you hear just about every old wives tale there is. I've heard some guys say that non-detergent 30 weight is the best break in oil, but they never really have any data top back it up. Consider that new parts (like rings and freshly honed cylinder walls) will be bedding in and I think a high detergent oil with dispersants makes sense to keep all the contaminants and metal swarf in solution until that critical first oil change. Did this motor get a new cam and lifters? If so I'd follow the cam manufacturers break in instructions TO THE TEE! Breaking in a new cam and lifters is a critical process and I've read that what you do in the first thirty minutes of running a new engine can determine the life of your cam. I read that it is actually work-hardened in the first thirty to forty five minutes and getting this right determines whether the cam lives a long and happy life or dies early. Davey

I meant to say that cam lobe faces and lifter faces are work hardened in the first thirty to forty five minutes. The entire cam is case hardened at casting I think, and then the grinding of lobes cuts into the hardened shell on the lobes, which are work hardened on first run. Just to clarify...Davey

Absolutely! Factory fill even back in '60 was detergent oil. And a thin oil is much better than a thick one, since you've gotta get oil into brand new, very tight clearances.
Yep. Hope you applied break-in paste to the cam lobes. Consensus seems to be that it's critical to vary the engine RPM for the first 30 minutes, rather than letting it idle or run at any constant speed for much of any length of time. Also critical to get the engine up to operating temperature ASAP, so the old notion of running-in the engine with the draincock cracked and a garden hose in the radiator neck is right out of the question.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks for all the info guys. Break in paste? I put moly on the lobes. The stuff that was supplied with my Erson cam. Is this the right stuff? Right now i only have the crank and cam in it, so its not to late to fix it if im wrong.

russ

I just picked up my assembled shortblock today and was told to use Rotella oil 20w oil for cam break in, then a good 10w-30 for initial engine break in.

Does 20w sound right for the cam? Everything I've read says 10w-30.

Yep!

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I would call this bad advice all around. Spend much of any time listening to the guys who really know the science and aren't just trying to sell something over on BITOG (the vehicle fluids board), and you'll find that Rotella is generally held in low regard.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

If has a new Compcam in it call them ask what oil to break it in with. I know of one racer that wiped a lobe right off a slant cam. Lets just leave it there.Compcams said you did not use the right breakin oil. Better check the cam maker or engine builder than just opinions. Thanks Ron Parker.








Bagels On Juice Im Bamboozled










Bagels Juiced Im Bamboozled

So Dan I guess that your not a beliver in what Crane has been saying
for some time?
http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/548e.pdf
here is anouther one from the Comp cam site
http://www.compcams.com/Community/Artic ... 1578676008

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Old iron or no iron

I am truly ate up with it I know, but I really enjoy talking about this stuff and thinking about it. If you want to see what I read about cam break in and work hardening of cam faces and moly, go here:

http://yarchive.net/car/cam_break_in.html

These guys are smart, and they are down to earth. John DeArmond agrees with Erson and SlantSixDan about the moly...it is a great break in lube for your cam. Again, with the moly and closely following the break in procedures, you can't go wrong. Cheers! Davey

The cams are billit steel not case harden. They are then ground to the profile . Again I would go with the cam manufactuer specs and type of break in oil rather than to listen to ron parker or bill bob or dan. Think Who is The Funny Man. Thanks Ron Parker









Bagels On Juice Im Bamboozled

Erson recommends the use of GM "engine oil supplimemnt" during cam break in.

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Their advice and mine aren't all that different. They list Rotella as an OK alternative, and (to clarify my position) using it won't cause a disaster, but there are much better oils on the market.

As far as additives, yep, I'd forgotten about the Zn-based additives all the major automakers supply (can get it over the counter from a Mopar dealer, GM dealer, etc.), and it's probably a good idea to use.

But straight 20-weight? Naw, I don't buy that.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.