I was thinking of changing my oil pump on my 74 Duster 225 /6
( Its currently a show car )

Its been on the car for 30 years and everything else on the engine has been replaced / reworked ( fuel pump, waster pump, etc., etc. ).

Can someone tell me if the oil pump can be removed and reinstalled while the engine is in the car ?

Do I have any options in what new oil pump to put on ?

Duster Girl

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Duster Girl

Get a hold of a mechanical oil pressure gauge and check the engine's oil pressure. If it is with-in spec. don't change the oil pump.
(An oil pump change is a tough job and there is a risk of oil pump gear failure every time a new pump goes in)
DD

Aye, what Doc said. Something I did with the one I'm working on was to put a brass "T" fitting on the oil pump where the sending unit goes, so I have the sending unit for the oil gauge, and the idiot light still works. Like someone told me before, "something about having a big red light staring you in the face to get your attention...".

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Once I saw a photo where someone mounted a rear fog light as a oil pressure warning light, under the dash. that was a ralley car from the 60s or something.

Now, that would get your attention,until I can swing a deal on a surplus air-raid siren the base is disposing of...Dave

air raid siren is about right... because I've found that everytime the oil "idoit" light comes on, it's just too too late...

My favorite was "Hey Michael, the oil light came on in the car today. I took it easy [i.e. didn't speed down the interstate] and came home after just making one last stop..." Funny how the engine was making a knocking noise when I started it back up.

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My truck is a Frankenstein creation
Built from the dead carcasses of others
And brought BACK TO LIFE!

I use a three way 'T'. One goes to the factory idiot light, one to my mechanical pressure gauge and one to a 30 psi switch. Power to the coil is wired through this normally open switch. I hold a momentary bypass switch wired in parallel to this switch when I start the car. After that, anything less than 30 psi oil pressure will auto shut-down the engine. In the event something happens, I'd rather figure things out later... meanwhile, my engine will remain undamaged.

Mitch

Check-out the little "goodie" I just installed into the drag car.
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/accusump/install.htm
An Accu-sump helps smooth-out the oil pressure and keeps it higher during hot idle.
It is cool to be able to start the engine with oil pressure already showing on the gauge.
DD

How does that accusump thing work ?

That's great to have. I thought I read somewhere that you can setup an indicator light to show when you are running off the accusump should you loose the engine oil pump. This would give you time to shut the engine down. It will be nice to be able to prime the engine after changing the oil & filter.

Mitch

An Accusump is an oil "accumulator", basically a cylinder with a piston in the middle. There is 5 psi air pressure on one side of the piston and main galley oil pressure on the other side, with an on / off valve to seperate the accusump from the engine's oil system.

When you start the engine and open the valve, 2 quarts enter the cylinder and pressurize to the engine's oil pressure reading. (53 psi in my case)
Shut the valve and you are now holding 2 quarts in the accumulator at 53 psi.

Before you start the engine, open the valve and oil flows into the engine's main oil galley and pressurizes it. My gauge gets up to 30 psi before the accusump runs out of pressure. At that point I start the engine and the accumulator refills.
DD

Would you say that's the best size to get for a slant? Sounds like some great insurance against wear from low oil pressure on startup.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

cool thing that is. Thanks for explaining! I read somewhere that some slants miss the oil stand pipe inside the oil filter. This means everytime the engine is started the oil pump has to fill the filter before there´s pressure at the bearings. But these engines don´t seem to be short lived or something. So I guess oil pressure on startup is not an issue with a slant ... ?

Well, even with the stand pipe it takes a second or two to get pressure at the bearings on startup. I really see no benefit to having it or not having it.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me