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 Post subject: I Need Your Help!!!!
PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2004 8:07 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 7:25 pm
Posts: 57
Location: California
Car Model:
O.K. here goes,
I bought an electronic ignition off e-bay. It is the 4-post type with the five wires. It also has the dual balast resistors. It came with an electronic voltage regulator. All good so far!!! So I put the dist. in and start to hook up the wires. I unpluged both plugs from my old balast resistor and connected all four wires together(which I think was wrong, because now they bypass any balast resistor). I then took those four wires and connected them to the loose brown and blue wire from the ECU wiring. The wire that goes from the positive side of the coil was left in place since I found it was one of the original four that I twisted together and connected to the brown and blue wires from the ECU. The other wires that are in the ECU wiring loom connect to the two balast resistor. The old single balast resistor is completely out of the car!! Lastly, I connected the black wire with yellow stripe to the negative side of the coil. I also changed to a Blaster 2 coil from MSD.
I started the car and it ran fine, but I heard the battery start to boil. So I put my meter on the battery and found that it was charging over 14 volts at idle. And when I reved the engine it would climb above 17 volts. Keep in mind I did not hook up the new electronic two wire voltage regulator, due to the fact that I have a single field alternator. Do I need a dual field alt. for the new regulator??
And remember the two blue wires that connected to one side of the original balast resistor, and the brown and blue that connected to the other side, and how I connected them together and attached them to the new brown and blue from the new wiring loom... Is this my problem??
Can someone lay this out Barney style for me...Thanks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2004 8:22 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
Posts: 1903
Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
Car Model:
yes. Your regulator is imcompatible with your alternator.

You should only see 13.8-14.7V dynamic voltage, regardless of engine speed. Variance is fine as long as it doesnt exceed these limits.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2004 8:23 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
Posts: 1903
Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
Car Model:
wait, I just remembered, chrysler alternators have different output from the universal figures above. I believe they are on the low side of these specs and fall lower. I think it's 12.8V on the low end. Goodluck

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2004 12:46 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Tue Dec 09, 2003 7:57 pm
Posts: 93
Location: Gettysburg , Pa
Car Model:
How long was it running before it climbed to 17+ volts? Rember that computer controled (like my 94 daktoa) electronics take atleast 14 volts to run anything below that and it will die... and if you just started it within 5 min or so the battery could still be low? the charging system might still be trying to charge the battery... when you put a battery on charge it will boil... try taking it for a drive 15-20 min then hit it with the meter and see what you get?
Frank


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2004 4:55 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8967
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
Car Model:
Negative. The voltage at the battery terminals should never exceed about 14.7 volts. If it does the voltage regulator is not doing its job. Could be a bad regulator or a wiring problem

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
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 Post subject: Related Question
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2004 7:36 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 2:01 pm
Posts: 269
Location: Lubbock, TEXAS
Car Model:
I have a related question for a 73 Duster. It has a dual field alternator. Does it matter which of the two wires go on either field connector? I don't have any problems right now but didn't know if it did make a difference as long as the large black wire was right. I think the two I am talking about are green and blue? Thanks.

Mike


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2004 7:52 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8967
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
Car Model:
The green and blue wires can go on either spade conector of the alternator, does not make a difference.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2004 3:21 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 7:25 pm
Posts: 57
Location: California
Car Model:
PLEASE DONT REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE ANYMORE
I'M A FREAKIN IDIOT
I FIGURED OUT WHERE I WENT WRONG. AND STILL CANT FIGURE OUT WHAT I WAS THINKING

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Hellbent Rods & Custom fabs


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2004 3:55 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
Posts: 1903
Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
Car Model:
*ducks*


Jeez ya know, if youd kept it a secret none of us wouldve known...

actually Im glad you asked the question, it made for interesting reading and there were a lot of informative answers. Glad you got things straightened out. :D

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.


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