I've got a 66 dart w/slant six. I replaced the distributor w/a Mopar-performance electronic conversion package, as well as the coil, and it runs great. My question is this: Do I need to replace the single-field alternator? And/or, do I need to replace the original voltage regulator? If so, how do I figure out the wiring for the dual-field alternator?

davidsandlin2001@yahoo.com

If the car is running great, maybe you don't have to change anything. The old electromagnetic regulators put voltage spikes in the electrical system. These spikes could cause problems with the ignition computer. Not having problems now doesn't mean you won't have problems some time in the future at a different ourdoor temperature or a heavier electrical load on the alternator. Then again, nothing I know says you ABSOLUTLY WILL HAVE A PROBLEM.

I've been told the new replacements for the old electromagnetic regulators are electronic, and some may be, but not all. I was going to buy a replacement recently, but the one NAPA had was electromagnetic.

The last conversion I did, I used the Mopar Performance voltage regulator for single field alternators. Mopar calls it a race only item, but I don't know why. It works great.

If you want to use the commonly available electronic regulator for the dual field alternators, check out the wiring diagrams at <A HREF="http://www.valiant.org/electrical-diagr ... ms.html</A>. There is a mistake, in the second and third drawings I can't get the web master to fix. The blue wire from the alternator field to the alternator regulator labeled "add one dark blue 18 gauge wire" should go to the ignition terminal on the regulator, not the mounting screw.

dwordinger@earthlink.net

I recently replaced my slant 6 with a mopar performance ignition control module, and distributor and it was running AMAZING. I could even burn it out, no complaints from me at all, but then it started miss firing. I have been chasing wires and checking connections, voltages, and grounds all day, and I still have no clue what my issue is. Does anyone have any other ideas? I already went through all the troubleshooting steps that were provided with the conversion.

Wow an ancient thread.
But Evan, we need more info. You put a whole different engine in, or just some ignition stuff or what?
How long between running "amazing" and misfiring?
What all did you replace? What didn't you replace? What didn't you touch?
How long ago? (Miles) Where did you get the parts you replaced?
What year and model of vehicle? Your post is vague

Sorry for the vague post, here are the details on my vehicle. I bought a 1966 Dodge dart with a stock 225 slant 6. When I bought the car it had been sitting in a feild since the 90's not running. Since I bought the car I replaced the torque converter, rebuilt the carburetor, replaced the exhaust manifold, fixed vacum hoses, distributor, etc. Tge distributor is now electronic with a mopar ignition control module, etc. I found that it had 3 bent push rods. After replacing the push rods and adjusting valves, everything was running great. About 3 days and a few hours of driving , it developed a random misfire thay is not consistent and changes depending on speed. I checked the valves and readjusted, no change.

Did you do anything with cap rotor wires or plugs?
Did you flush the fuel system? New filter?
How random of a misfire? While sitting? While accelerating? While cruising steady at (?) certain speed?

Were the valves out of adjustment after 3 days of driving? Is it possible you had more bent push rods? Maybe the valves are getting tight in the guides.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

What exactly did you install? Just the module, or also distributor? Can you show us a link to the exact thing(s) you bought, please?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Before installing this ignition control module I installed all new plugs, plug wires, new rotor, but no new cap. I bought a new cap but it did not fit, so it still runs the old cap, but I cleaned it pretty well. As for how random the missfire is, it misses at idle randomly. It could run fine for a few seconds them miss once or twice, go back to idleing great, then miss like 8 times in a row. Im pretty sure it is only on the 6th cylinder. As the RPM increases so does the missfire. I couldnt tell you exactly what distributor it is, but it is from Orileys. I had originally bought a points distributor for the car from them, but when it arrived it was the two wire Mopar electronic distributor. As I got a steal of a deal I decided to spend a little more money to buy the accessories to make it work so I bought this ignition control module :
https://www.autozone.com/p/proform-igni ... &year=1966

None of this is Mopar Performance equipment. You've got an off-brand (= iffy dependability) ignition module, and a similarly low-quality distributor.Not your fault; this stuff is the easiest available – still possible to get good parts, but it takes a lot more effort. Lots of opportunities for crummy running in these two parts alone, and you've also got an old distributor cap, and a rotor of unknown quality. All of this is installed in a car that sat in a field for 30-some years. Unless it has been updated, it has the early (pre-'70) charging system, which is a lot more likely to produce uneven, spiky voltage which matters a lot more with electronic ignition than with points. This car had three bent pushrods – which means there are probably other problems from the long sitting outside (and/or from before it was parked; it was walked away from for one reason or another).

What's the word on spark plugs, carburetor, decades-old gasoline, the fuel tank, and fuel filter?

Follow tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this post, and carburetor repair info here.

As soon as you can, get the three books listed in this thread.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'd pop the valve cover and see if the same pushrods bent again.
Story of my Dart; only it took a few months to realize it was the same culprit for misfiring.

As for the question of if the pushrods bent again, thats a no. I made sure to go through everything as to make sure there is no chance of another bent pushrod. Everything works properly. The carburetor on this car wad professionally rebuilt, and there isnt much on this car I have not touched. I pulled the spark plugs, and they look good. I gapped them to .045 as to account for the hotter and larger spark. This car runs great other than the misfire. It even starts first crank. My suspion is that something with the magnets in the distributor needs to be adjusted. I have done some research and no the distributor I have is not a cheap Chinese knock of. This distributor was original to the later Mopar slant 6 engines. It qas cleaned, had some parts replaced, and was sold to me on accident. Yes the ignition module was cheap, and most likley Chinese but it is licensed by Mopar, and even has some good reveiws. Is it cheap, Chinese junk? Most likley, but I dont have to much money. Where could I get an actual Mopar ignition control module? Also is there any advice for adjusting the components inside the distributor? Also the only thing not replaced in the ignition system is the cap, the roor, wires, coil, wires, etc are all new.
Thank you for all the help.

P.S I document all the stuff I do to these cars here:
https://youtube.com/@fixitfoolsgarage?s ... YPah7CWeoa

Why do you think it's #6?
And if it's only one cylinder, it would not be the air gap on the reluctor in the distributor.

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Hyper_pak

At first I thought it was just cylinder #6 because when I hooked up my timing light to all the cylinders only #6 was missing, but after going back through, it is randomly all the cylinders.

Not a wise move with that ignition system. Put them where they're supposed to be, at 0.035".

And what (brand and number) spark plugs are they? Did you remember to remove the metal ring washers?
Where does this idea come from, that it is licensed by Mopar?
Probably so! But online 'reviews' are worthless at best, misleading at worst. See here and here and here (and many others).

Please have a bit of perspective: you asked for advice on what could be causing your misfire…and you're getting it. The actual cause may or may not be among the advice you get. You're young, not rolling in money, and still learning. Time and effort will be better spent chasing the leads you're being given rather than going nuh-uh, is not on the internet.
They're around as new old stock (eBay), and you can also get a reputable-brand box (old-stock Echlin or Standard/BlueStreak) the same way.
In the service manual, yes. That's one of the three books listed here. The adjustment is to the air gap between the pickup and the reluctor.
That alone could be causing your misfire. So could the too-large spark plug gaps, or iffy quality on any of the new parts you mention. Or it could be something else. Keep sleuthing!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.