I've got a 66 dart w/slant six. I replaced the distributor w/a Mopar-performance electronic conversion package, as well as the coil, and it runs great. My question is this: Do I need to replace the single-field alternator? And/or, do I need to replace the original voltage regulator? If so, how do I figure out the wiring for the dual-field alternator?

davidsandlin2001@yahoo.com

If the car is running great, maybe you don't have to change anything. The old electromagnetic regulators put voltage spikes in the electrical system. These spikes could cause problems with the ignition computer. Not having problems now doesn't mean you won't have problems some time in the future at a different ourdoor temperature or a heavier electrical load on the alternator. Then again, nothing I know says you ABSOLUTLY WILL HAVE A PROBLEM.

I've been told the new replacements for the old electromagnetic regulators are electronic, and some may be, but not all. I was going to buy a replacement recently, but the one NAPA had was electromagnetic.

The last conversion I did, I used the Mopar Performance voltage regulator for single field alternators. Mopar calls it a race only item, but I don't know why. It works great.

If you want to use the commonly available electronic regulator for the dual field alternators, check out the wiring diagrams at <A HREF="http://www.valiant.org/electrical-diagr ... ms.html</A>. There is a mistake, in the second and third drawings I can't get the web master to fix. The blue wire from the alternator field to the alternator regulator labeled "add one dark blue 18 gauge wire" should go to the ignition terminal on the regulator, not the mounting screw.

dwordinger@earthlink.net

I recently replaced my slant 6 with a mopar performance ignition control module, and distributor and it was running AMAZING. I could even burn it out, no complaints from me at all, but then it started miss firing. I have been chasing wires and checking connections, voltages, and grounds all day, and I still have no clue what my issue is. Does anyone have any other ideas? I already went through all the troubleshooting steps that were provided with the conversion.

Wow an ancient thread.
But Evan, we need more info. You put a whole different engine in, or just some ignition stuff or what?
How long between running "amazing" and misfiring?
What all did you replace? What didn't you replace? What didn't you touch?
How long ago? (Miles) Where did you get the parts you replaced?
What year and model of vehicle? Your post is vague

Sorry for the vague post, here are the details on my vehicle. I bought a 1966 Dodge dart with a stock 225 slant 6. When I bought the car it had been sitting in a feild since the 90's not running. Since I bought the car I replaced the torque converter, rebuilt the carburetor, replaced the exhaust manifold, fixed vacum hoses, distributor, etc. Tge distributor is now electronic with a mopar ignition control module, etc. I found that it had 3 bent push rods. After replacing the push rods and adjusting valves, everything was running great. About 3 days and a few hours of driving , it developed a random misfire thay is not consistent and changes depending on speed. I checked the valves and readjusted, no change.

Did you do anything with cap rotor wires or plugs?
Did you flush the fuel system? New filter?
How random of a misfire? While sitting? While accelerating? While cruising steady at (?) certain speed?

Were the valves out of adjustment after 3 days of driving? Is it possible you had more bent push rods? Maybe the valves are getting tight in the guides.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

What exactly did you install? Just the module, or also distributor? Can you show us a link to the exact thing(s) you bought, please?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Before installing this ignition control module I installed all new plugs, plug wires, new rotor, but no new cap. I bought a new cap but it did not fit, so it still runs the old cap, but I cleaned it pretty well. As for how random the missfire is, it misses at idle randomly. It could run fine for a few seconds them miss once or twice, go back to idleing great, then miss like 8 times in a row. Im pretty sure it is only on the 6th cylinder. As the RPM increases so does the missfire. I couldnt tell you exactly what distributor it is, but it is from Orileys. I had originally bought a points distributor for the car from them, but when it arrived it was the two wire Mopar electronic distributor. As I got a steal of a deal I decided to spend a little more money to buy the accessories to make it work so I bought this ignition control module :
https://www.autozone.com/p/proform-igni ... &year=1966

None of this is Mopar Performance equipment. You've got an off-brand (= iffy dependability) ignition module, and a similarly low-quality distributor.Not your fault; this stuff is the easiest available – still possible to get good parts, but it takes a lot more effort. Lots of opportunities for crummy running in these two parts alone, and you've also got an old distributor cap, and a rotor of unknown quality. All of this is installed in a car that sat in a field for 30-some years. Unless it has been updated, it has the early (pre-'70) charging system, which is a lot more likely to produce uneven, spiky voltage which matters a lot more with electronic ignition than with points. This car had three bent pushrods – which means there are probably other problems from the long sitting outside (and/or from before it was parked; it was walked away from for one reason or another).

What's the word on spark plugs, carburetor, decades-old gasoline, the fuel tank, and fuel filter?

Follow tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this post, and carburetor repair info here.

As soon as you can, get the three books listed in this thread.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.